Португальский путь Сантьяго (4 день): Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья

Четвертый день Пути Сантьяго: Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья

Утро в Виана-ду-Каштелу

Ох, какая же это была тяжелая ночь. Муниципальный альберге Вианы-ду-Каштелу был адски душным, шумным и как назло я попала в компанию сильно храпящих людей. Я очень плохо сплю, когда храпят, хотя все другие шумы ночью воспринимаю нормально. Также на нижнем ярусе моей двуспальной кровати спал мужчина, весом примерно в две меня и так сильно ворочался, что верхний ярус со мной ходил ходуном. Зато в этом альберге нормальное постельное белье и одеяла с подушками, дальше с этим будет только хуже. Но дальше будет дальше, а сейчас начался четвертый день португальского пути Святого Иакова.

Улица Виана-ду-Каштелу, украшенная платками.

Помимо храпящих и трясущих кровати людей есть отдельная категория, люди шуршащие или homo shursharious (авторская находка, ничего общего с наукой). И вот сейчас будет небольшое отступление про остальных пилигримов, чтобы вы знали, что бывает всякое, прям как в купе поезда, следующего по России.

Пилигримы тоже люди: бывают приятные, а бывают не очень

Так как маршрут стал очень популярным среди европейцев, на нем появляется много случайных людей, хоть и католиков, но случайных. Это выливается в незнание так называемой «походной культуры», когда вы все думаете об окружающих и уважаете друг друга. Хоть камино де сантьяго не совсем поход: живете вы не в палатке, костры не разводите, посуду в реке не моете; но культура разделения общей территории и общественного инвентаря схожа.

Я вот искренне считаю, что вставать в 5 утра и собирать рюкзак прямо над ухом рядом спящего человека проявлением неуважения. Во всех альбергах есть общие комнаты или коридоры: если ты хочешь проснуться раньше всех и уйти, ну проснись ты, тихонечко встань, собери все свои манатки в охапку и иди упаковываться в коридор и шурши там. Утром частая проблема, когда ты хочешь поспать, но много людей, видя, что в комнате больше половины постояльцев еще спит, все равно шуршат и шумят. А некоторые начинают светить фонариками в глаза, в поисках своих вещей, а некоторые еще и громко (чаще всего на немецком) что-то обсуждают.

Вечером же большая проблема это занятые умывальники и души, а некоторые их занимают сразу компанией. Например, если в альберге три женских душевых в одной комнате с дверью, туда могут пойти две подруги и закрыться, и ни одна из них не выйдет, пока не закончит вторая. В итоге одна кабинка просто простаивает. Также многие пилигримы начинают стирать свои вещи, хотя видят, что еще не все пришедшие помылись.

На кухне тоже, если она есть, творится вакханалия. Например, люди приготовили еду в единственной сковороде, порезав овощи на единственной доске единственным ножом, и пошли есть это все на веранду, ничего за собой не помыв. Едят они долго, с бутылочкой вина, обсуждают пройденный день и набрасывают планы на день грядущий. Разумеется, человек, который тоже хочет что-то приготовить не будет ждать, пока они закончат, а помоет сам. Я тоже так делала, хотя я просила прибрать за собой, но девочки выпучили на меня глаза и искренне не понимали, почему я чем-то недовольна.

Вы не подумайте, что я жалуюсь или брюзжу, просто предупреждаю, что не все так радужно и причиной дискомфорта могут стать совершенно посторонние люди в самых неожиданных бытовых ситуациях и мелочах. Можно быть сколь угодно верующим, молиться богу, проходить этот путь именно как паломник, а не как турист, знать библию и биографию Святого Иакова наизусть, но любовь и уважение к ближнему это не заменит. А именно в любви проявляется вера. По крайней мере я считаю так.

Но все-таки вернемся на камино

Как я писала, вечером третьего дня я немного повредила мышцу то ли бедра, то ли ягодицы. В любом случае, рюкзак при ходьбе как раз давил на больное место, в каком бы темпе я не шла. Поэтому мы приняли решение в последний день португальского побережья поберечь ногу и проехаться на электричке. К тому же в пятый день нам предстояло пройти больше 30 км.

Погода выдалась замечательная.

Решение воспользоваться электричкой было принято утром, а альберги открываются после обеда. Торопиться и ехать в Каминью смысла не было, и мы решили погулять по Виана-ду-Каштелу и лучше изучить городок, а заодно позавтракать местными легендарными паштел-де-натами и отправить почтовые открытки, так как в Испании португальские почтовые марки будут недействительны.

Виана-ду-Каштелу: пештел де наты из Natario
Португальская выпечка в Виана-ду-Каштелу.

Мы пошли на вокзал, так как ходить мне и по городу было тяжеловато, и тихо ждали наш поезд, читая книжки и прикидывая по дням дальнейший маршрут. Рядом с нами сидела пилигрим в возрасте, мы немного разговорились, и она рассказала, что натерла ногу в кровь и хочется в этот день не травмировать место еще сильнее. Ехать на электричке около получаса, поэтому дорога прошла незаметно. И вот мы вышли на станции Каминья.

Каминья, станция электрички.

Первым делом мы отправились в альберге, чтобы сбросить рюкзаки. Мы заранее приметили альберге почти на выходе из города, чтобы утром просто выйти и пойти, поэтому поселились рядом с автомобильным мостом через реку Кора. Заняли двуспальную кровать около стены, чтобы было поменьше соседей. Нас поразил размер комнаты, это была очень большая комната, почти как казарма. Потом мы привыкнем, что чем ближе к Сантьяго-де-Компостела, тем больше и больше кроватей стоит в одной комнате в альберге, и что они все больше и больше смахивают на казарму или больницу.

Река Миньо — граница с Испанией.

Город (но может и поселок) Каминья стоит на реке Миньо, которая является границей между Португалией и Испанией. Другую страну уже видно, но есть одно интересное обстоятельство. В городе так и не построили мост. Поэтому перед пилигримами, идущими Прибрежным португальским путем, встает выбор, держаться ли дальше океана и пользоваться паромной переправой, или идти в город Валенса на историческую переправу Валенса—Туи и отдалиться от океана и до конца пути только пару раз увидеть его бухточки.

Река Миньо, вид на Португальский берег.

Мы твердо решили воспользоваться историческим мостом. Мы это решили еще в Порту, так что про переправу даже не думали. Но очень много пилигримов из нашего альберге встали утром на паром, мы же перешли реку Кора через мост и пошли к Валенсе. Но это будет завтра, а сегодня город Каминья.

Часовая башня на площади Советника Сильвы Торреса.

Каминья мне запомнилась скучной городской частью и очень красивой природой. Городскую часть достаточно быстро можно обойти, есть хороший выбор ресторанов для обеда и ужина, даже какие-то магазинчики имеются. Какие угодно, но не продуктовые. Найти продуктовый магазин оказалось целым квестом на 2 часа.

Площадь Советника Сильвы Торреса в Каминье.

Центром жизни и скопления людей в Каминье является площадь Советника Сильвы Торреса. Хорошие, наверное, советы давал. Кроме нее мне практически не попадались на глаза люди, вот насколько все казалось вымершим.

Вид на часовую башню сзади.
Площадь Советника Сильвы Торреса.

Нам достаточно быстро наскучили однообразные улочки, а вот океан во всей своей красе мы видели в последний раз, поэтому купили бутылку вина, пару португальских консервов и отправились к пляжу Моледу (Moledo). Туда же мы взяли купальники, чтобы окунуться. Купанием это сложно назвать, так как вода на португальском побережье Атлантики очень холодная.

Набережная реки Миньо.

Дорога на пляж пролегает вдоль Миньо, на которой в свою очередь есть свой пляж. Наверное, там вода лучше прогревается и меньше ветра, но в основном все усыпано рыбацкими лодками. Рыбаков тут вообще навалом, им даже установлен памятник.

Памятник рыбаку.

Когда сворачиваешь от берега Миньо к океану, попадаешь в сосновый лес с очень причудливыми деревьями. Это, конечно, не танцующий лес в Калининградской области, но по местным соснам тоже видно, что ветер мешает им расти прямо. А запах распаренной на жаре хвои стоит шикарный, настолько, что я решила в качестве сувенира забрать оттуда огромную шишку. Мало мне за спиной консервов и портвейна, которые я просто тащу в Питер, буду таскать еще и огромную шишку.

Очень красивая сосновая роща на берегу океана.

И вот вы приходите на пляж где вас сдувает, зато раздолье серферов и прочих любителей водных процедур в гидрокостюме. Мы же, как «северяне» из Петербурга решили окунуться, так как не каждый день бываем на океане. Впечатления незабываемые, так как жара на пляже около 36 градусов, а вода не больше 18. Долго находиться в воде невозможно, зато искупались в океане. Бутылка вина хорошо помогает согреться.

Пляж на океане.

Водными процедурами долго предаваться не получится, так как холодно, да еще и солнце зашло и резко стемнело, а нам предстояло пройти больше 30 км на следующий день. Поэтому мы решили отправиться отсыпаться и набираться сил. Прощай, океан!

Организационная информация

Альберге в городе Каминья

Albergue de Peregrinos (Av. Padre Pinheiro 36, 4910-105 Caminha, Португалия)

Продолжили экспериментировать с муниципальными альберге. В этот раз за 5 € в комнате было 26 человек. Комната была подвального типа, с маленькими окнами и темная. Так как он находился практически на берегу реки Кора, то нетрудно догадаться, что ночью в подвале около реки адский дубак, в сочетании с прорезиненными матрасами и подушками, от которых ощущение, что ты в инфекционной больнице, спать вообще неприятно. Спасает только уютный свой спальник. Зато есть wi-fi и хорошо оборудованная кухня и столовая.

Где поужинать в Каминье

Ресторан Duque de Caminha (R. Direita 27, 4910-155 Caminha, Португалия)

Так как в Пути мы практически перестали есть, так как когда время ланча, мы еще не хотим, а когда начинаем хотеть, рестораны уже не подают обед, но еще не начали обслуживать ужин, то мы начали делать упор на ужин. В этом есть свои плюсы: мы не теряем час в пути и всегда успеваем на койки в муниципальных (читай «самых дешевых» альберге). Так как это были последние деньки в Португалии, решили отведать португальской кухни в ресторане Duque de Caminha.

А вообще рекомендую зайти в супермаркет, купить вина, сыра, чоризо, помидоры, хлеб и баночку консервированных сардин в томате и отправиться смотреть закат на пляж. Мне кажется, это будет самый лучший ужин.

Паромная переправа или Taxi mar

Если вы в отличие от нас решили строго следовать Камино Португеш да Коста, то вам придется воспользоваться переправой через реку город A-Гуарда.

Расписание движения парома Каминья — A-Гуарда: каждый час с 09:00 до 19:00, все дни недели кроме понедельника, интервал движения — 1 час. Возможны перебои в работе в зависимости от уровня воды. Путь займет 15 мин. Стоимость билета: 1.5 € обычный и 2 € за велосипедиста. Телефон кассы +351 258 092 564.

С 2018 года доступна моторная лодка «Taxi-Mar» Сеньора Марко. Цена билета 5 €. Стоимость за переправу одного человека — 10 €. Позвонить и узнать информацию можно по телефону +351 915 955 827 или спросить в кафе на пристани парома «Bar do Ferry».

Также все самые популярные вопросы про Путь Сантьяго я описала в отдельной длинной статье

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  138. You’re so interesting! I do not think I’ve read something like this before. So wonderful to find another person with a few unique thoughts on this subject matter. Seriously.. many thanks for starting this up. This website is one thing that is needed on the web, someone with a little originality!

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