Португальский путь Сантьяго (3 день): Каштелу-ду-Нейва — Виана-ду-Каштелу

Третий день Пути Сантьяго: Каштелу-ду-Нейва — Виана-ду-Каштелу

В третий день нашего пешего пути до Сантьяго-де-Компостелы мы вышли очень рано. Во-первых стало понятно, что приходить раньше других паломников и занимать хорошие места в альбергах удобно, так же можно успеть приготовить еду, пока вся посуда не будет перепачкана. Да и розетки оказались ценнейшим ресурсом. Спалось мне просто ужасно, так как я умирала от жары. Я даже предлагала той мерзнущей немке, что включала вентилятор, поменяться с ней местами, но она не соглашалась. Больше я пока с другими пилигримами не общалась, так как стеснялась языка и просто не понимала, зачем.

Паломник на велосипеде и рассвет.

Помимо понятных преимуществ раннего выхода в виде хороших мест и розеток есть и косвенные, а именно более комфортная температура ходьбы и прекрасные виды. На рассвете природа совсем другая, да и солнце светит по-особенному. К тому же из-за того, что во второй день мы прошли всего 16 км мы планировали нагнать и пройти минимум 20 км (спойлер, ничего не вышло).

Церковь Сан-Ромау-ду-Нейва (Igreja de São Romão do Neiva)

Выходить из Каштелу-ду-Нейвы утром одно удовольствие. Стоит просто гробовая тишина, не лают даже собаки. В лесу и на полях выпала роса и добавила воздуху влажной свежести и неповторимый аромат.

Склепы рядом с церковью Сан-Ромау-ду-Нейва.

Но как всегда на Юге, ночью резко темнеет, а утром с такой же быстротою светлеет. Солнце начало палить, а океан был достаточно далеко, чтобы радовать нас прохладным ветерком. Путь больше пролегал по каменистым дорогам и очень маленьким городам, редко перемежаясь лесом с тенью.

К этому моменту я еще не перестала удивляться количеству кукурузы и стала горевать, почему же они не продают ее паломникам вареной и с солью. Им явно не хватает какого-нибудь бизнесмена с черноморского побережья, быстро бы наладил бизнес. На вид она была прямо как я люблю: жесткая, не сильно сладкая и с крупными зернышками.

Целый грузовик кукурузного урожая.

На третий день начинаешь понимать, что португальцы не только дома строили одинаковые (плитка разная, а форма одна), но и с церквями не заморачивались. К какому-то моменту даже лень было лишний раз включать фотоаппарат, любовалась просто глазами. Не то чтобы мне не нравилось, просто глаз привык и замылился, и если раньше это было бы «вау, церковь«, то на третий день камино стало просто «еще одна церковь».

Просто еще одна какая-то португальская церковь.

В больших городах путь паломников стараются не прокладывать по центральным улицам, так как там и так большой трафик из машин и людей. В маленьких же путь Сантьяго проходит через самый центр, что очень удобно, так как как правило в центре есть кафе с паштел де натами и эспрессо и магазинчик, где можно прикупить питьевой воды.

Центральная улица города Chafé (я не знаю, как это произносится).

В большинстве же своем путь проходит по задворкам и окольным дорогам, чтобы обеспечить безопасность самих паломников, и не сильно беспокоить местных жителей большим количеством шатающихся туристов. В Лиссабоне вот от обилия туристов местные не открывают ставни, ходят в секретные магазины и не пользуются некоторыми маршрутами трамваев. Все потому, что устали от повышенного внимания. Думаю, тут боятся того же.

Задний двор приходской церкви Сантьяго Вила-Нова-де-Анья (Igreja Matriz Da Paróquia De São Tiago De Vila Nova De Anha)

И я честно признаюсь, что мы правда намеревались пойти дальше, чем на 12 км, но мы пришли в город Виана-ду-Каштелу и влюбились. Мы поняли, что надо остаться и погулять, что в нем есть что посмотреть и захотели подняться к церкви, которую было видно с любой точки Виана-ду-Каштелу. И особенно с берегов реки Лимы, когда паломники заходят в этот город по пути.

Подходим к городу Виана-ду-Каштелу.

Заходить в город в первой половине дня очень красиво. Во-первых, город стоит на широкой реке Лима, где утром много рыбаков и расставлены сети. Во-вторых, через Лиму проложили красивый мост, который был спроектирован Эйфелем. Да, тем самым Эйфелем, что проектировал башню в Париже. А еще яхточки, набережные и собор на горе.

Церковь Санта Лусия в Виана-ду-Каштелу

Дойдя до Площади Республики (местная центральная) стало точно понятно, что надо оставаться, так как назревал какой-то рынок домашних пирогов в национальных костюмах, и город явно выглядел интересным и, что самое главное, живым, в отличие от всех предыдущих. Скрипя сердцем, хоть и хотели пройти больше, но решили остаться, и не зря.

Вид с холма Санта Лусия на реку Лима и мост Эйфеля.

Тогда мы еще не знали, что вид с Церкви Санта Лусия признан одним из самых красивых в мире (правда, в 1927 году), что здесь есть старинное кафе с паштел де натами, что здесь будет шикарный закат и что я потяну ногу на камнях, упрыгивая от прилива. Но прелестям Вианы-ду-Каштелу я посвятила отдельный пост, а третий день Пути Сантьяго закончился еще раньше, чем предыдущий, зато хорошей сангрией в кондитерской Caravela на центральной площади.

Организационная информация

Альберге в городе Виана-ду-Каштелу

Albergue de Peregrinos Sao Joao dos Caminhos (R. do Carmo n. 1, 4900-478 Viana do Castelo, Португалия)

Это был первый раз, когда мы ночевали непосредственно в муниципальном альберге. За 6 евро в нем можно поспать в комнате на 14 человек без розеток (максимум одна на всех, и кто-то ушлый не особо хочет ей делиться), помыться в двух душах (в одном помещении, доступном и для мужчин, и для женщин одновременно), положить еду в холодильник. Еду приготовить негде, нет даже столовых приборов, нет wi-fi и никто не говорит по английски из смотрителей. Так же все пилигримы должны покинуть альберге не позднее 9 утра следующего дня.

Где поужинать в Виана-ду-Каштелу

Ресторан Oceanus (Praça da República 62, 4900-532 Viana do Castelo, Португалия)

Блюда без изысков, но готовят вкусно и быстро.

А вообще рекомендую зайти в супермаркет, купить вина, сыра, чоризо, помидоры, хлеб и баночку консервированных сардин в томате и отправиться смотреть закат на пляж. Мне кажется, это будет самый лучший ужин.

А это уже закат на Атлантическом океане.

Также все самые популярные вопросы про Путь Сантьяго я описала в отдельной длинной статье

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