Приятный город Виана-ду-Каштелу в Португалии - КРАМАР БЛОГ

Славный город Виана-ду-Каштелу в Португалии

Виана-ду-Каштелу: третий день Пути Сантьяго

Я решила посвятить городочку Виана-ду-Каштелу отдельный пост, чтобы не перегружать отчет о том, как мы шли в третий день по Пути Сантьяго. Многие пишут про этот город, что он предельно унылый, как и все остальные, но по моему скромному мнению, Виана-ду-Каштелу был чуть ли не самым интересным городом на Португальском пути, не считая начального пункта (Порту) и конечного (Сантьяго-де-Компостела).

Итак, чем же он запал мне в душу и почему я считаю этот город чуть ли не лучшим на Португальском прибрежном пути? А вот чем.

Река Лима

Город стоит на реке Лима, большой и настоящей реке, которая, судя по обилию рыбаков достаточно живая. Здесь река впадает в Атлантический океан, образуя красивую долину, на которую можно посмотреть с горы Санта-Лузия, о которой чуть позже.

Рыбаки на реке Лима.

Вообще, когда день выдался жарким, любая близость проточной воды всегда плюс, ведь как правило с реки дует прохладный ветерок и свежий воздух. Но на океане есть ветра посильнее, поэтому прохладительный эффект от реки немного меркнет, но зато очень красиво.

Мост Эйфеля через реку Лима.

Мост Густава Эйфеля

Через реку Лима прокинут двухуровневый мост Густава Эйфеля длиной в 560 метров. На верхнем уровне автомобильная дорога, а на нижнем железная. Стоит ли говорить, что смотреть на реку Лима лучше с верхнего яруса, на котором есть удобные тротуары? Кстати, этот мост старше более знаменитого творения Эйфеля — Эйфелевой башни — на 10 с небольшим лет.

Разветвление верхнего и нижнего ярусов моста Эйфеля.

А вот и подтверждающая табличка, которая говорит, что автор и конструктор Густав Эйфель.

Табличка на Мосту Эйфеля в Виана-ду-Каштелу.

Зеленые улочки

Наверное главной отличительной чертой Виана-ду-Каштелу стало наличие разнообразной инфраструктуры и зелени. Другие города тоже пустынными не были, но там зелень в основном выражалась кукурузными полями и лесами между ними, а тут большие деревья были прям в городе.

Также во Виана-ду-Каштелу очень развитая инфраструктура. В этом городе мы наконец-то нашли банкоматы, и сняли наличку, так как поняли, что в Португалии не любят принимать карты из-за грабительских тарифов на эквайринг.

С обедом и ужином проблем тоже не возникнет. Есть и продуктовые магазины, где можно купить все необходимые для перекуса продукты, пластырь для мозолей и прочие мелочи, которые скрашивают быт, тут много кафе и ресторанов, которые открыты и подают хорошую горячую еду.

Еще нам очень повезло и мы наткнулись на какой-то местный фестиваль местной выпечки, участники которого продавали за символический 1 € добротные кусочки пирогов с разными начинками. Ими мы быстро наелись, да так, что решили не обедать, в присесть в кафе неподалеку и выпить сангрию на белом вине.

Куча пирогов!
И народные костюмы.

А вот архитектурного разнообразия все-таки нет. Все жилые дома похожи друг на друга, все церкви похожи друг на друга,все улицы на одно лицо. В общем сельская Португалия в плане архитектуры однообразна, но я не думаю, что это плохо, наши же деревни в одно регионе тоже однообразны. Да, тверские дома и кубанские отличаются друг от друга, но вот одни тверские от других тверских уже не так сильно.

И еще одна похожая на все остальные португальская церковь.

Площадь Республики, она же центральная

Центральная площадь города — Площадь Республики, на которой есть много интересно. Все пилигримы пишут про фонтан, вот прям всем фонтанам фонтан. Если честно, фонтан как фонтан, когда мы там были, он даже не работал.

Фонтан на площади республики. На фото за ним кондитерская с шикарной сангрией на белом вине.

Помимо фонтана на площади есть Дом Милосердия, в котором проходят выставки. В августе 2018 года была выставка моего любимого азулежу. Но на выставку мы не пошли, так как к тому моменту еще не скинули рюкзаки, а не тащиться же с ними в храм хрупкой керамической плитки.

Дом Милосердия Виана-ду-Каштелу.

Вообще на площади много всего, и людей много. Но самая вкусная булочная-кондитерская все-таки не на центральной площади, а чуть в отдалении.

Легендарная выпечка

Когда мы просто прогуливались по городу, то удивились, что в одну булочку очередь начинается от соседнего квартала. Да, люди стояли в очереди за пирожными, и продвигалась эта очередь медленно. Я сначала внимание не обратила, а потом поняла, что стоят в основном не пилигримы, а обычные люди после работы. А уж они то точно знают, где и что покупать.

Я загорелась тоже попробовать, но вечером было сильно лень, так что пошли туда на утро. И да, народная тропа не подвела. Это были самые вкусные булки и паштел-де-наты за все время, чтобы странствовали по Португалии. Булочная называется Natário (я сначала думала, что это от слова Nata «сливки», а это фамилия основателя, вот такое совпадение).

Итак, булочная Manuel Natário (R. Manuel Espregueira 37, 4900-318 Viana do Castelo, Португалия), я рьяно рекомендую.

Фуникулер Санта-Лузия

Гуляя по городу быстро понимаешь, что не все дороги ведут к Церкви Санта-Лузия, а место-то примечательное, попасть туда стоит. Мы не сразу нашли фуникулер, который они называют лифт (Elevador), а еще он рано закрывается.

Пилигримам точно стоит брать билет туда-обратно, потому что еще находитесь, да и дорога с горы неживописная. Билеты тоже не стоят чугуна.

Зато за эти 3 € вы получаете вид, который почти 100 лет назад журнал National Geographic посчитал третьим по красивости видом в мире. Тут вам и окена, и река Лима, и мост Эйфеля, и крыши города, и макушки деревьев. Вид правда того стоит.

Впадение реки Лимы в океан.
«Конечная» фуникулера.

Церковь Санта-Лузия

Церковь Санта-Лузия.

Сама по себе церковь тоже очень красивая, и якобы самый лучший вид все-таки с ее купола. Я в это охотно верю и проверять не стала, не люблю стоять в очередях на смотровые площадки.

Вид на реку Лима.

Закаты и мельница

До заката с холма Санта-Лузия лучше все-таки спуститься. Во-первых может закрыться фуникулер, а во-вторых, ничего не будет видно. После спуска мы пошли на океан. Главное достоинство любого города на океане это океан. Океан, он величественен и прекрасен. Океан, он совсем не как море. Закат на океане — самый красивый закат.

Закат и влади мельница Монтедур.

Вот такой приятный городок Виана-ду-Каштелу, который оставил после себя очень классное впечатление. Наверное, это действительно самый живой город на отрезке пути Сантьяго от Порту до границы с Испанией (на самом деле и в Испании там города очень маленькие).

В какой раз убеждаюсь, что путь Святого Иакова является уникальным способом посмотреть на провинциальную Европу в общем и Португалию в частности, и посетить те города, куда специально не поедешь, в которые ты приходишь пешком и из-за этого смотришь на них совсем по-другому.

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  91. Next time I read a blog, Hopefully it doesn’t fail me as much as this one. After all, Yes, it was my choice to read, however I actually believed you’d have something useful to say. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something you could fix if you weren’t too busy looking for attention.

  92. Can I just say what a relief to find somebody that truly understands what they are talking about online. You certainly realize how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More and more people really need to read this and understand this side of your story. I was surprised that you are not more popular because you certainly possess the gift.

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  95. When I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new feedback are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get 4 emails with the identical comment. Is there any approach you can remove me from that service? Thanks!

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  103. Can I just say what a relief to find someone who truly knows what they are discussing over the internet. You actually realize how to bring a problem to light and make it important. More and more people must look at this and understand this side of the story. I was surprised you’re not more popular given that you definitely have the gift.

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  137. The very next time I read a blog, Hopefully it doesn’t disappoint me just as much as this one. I mean, I know it was my choice to read, however I actually believed you’d have something useful to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something that you could fix if you weren’t too busy seeking attention.

  138. Having read this I believed it was really informative. I appreciate you finding the time and effort to put this information together. I once again find myself personally spending a significant amount of time both reading and leaving comments. But so what, it was still worthwhile!

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  146. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a friend who had been doing a little homework on this. And he actually bought me dinner simply because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thank YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending time to talk about this topic here on your web page.

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  150. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a co-worker who was conducting a little research on this. And he actually ordered me breakfast simply because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thank YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanks for spending the time to talk about this issue here on your blog.

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  161. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a coworker who was conducting a little research on this. And he in fact bought me breakfast simply because I found it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending some time to discuss this issue here on your web site.

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  167. You’re so cool! I don’t suppose I’ve truly read through anything like this before. So wonderful to find someone with unique thoughts on this subject. Really.. thanks for starting this up. This website is one thing that is needed on the web, someone with a bit of originality!

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  170. An outstanding share! I have just forwarded this onto a coworker who has been doing a little homework on this. And he in fact bought me dinner because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending the time to discuss this subject here on your internet site.

  171. After I originally commented I appear to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I receive 4 emails with the same comment. There has to be a way you are able to remove me from that service? Kudos!

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  185. You’re so interesting! I don’t suppose I’ve truly read a single thing like this before. So nice to discover somebody with some genuine thoughts on this issue. Seriously.. thanks for starting this up. This website is something that is required on the internet, someone with a little originality!

  186. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a colleague who has been conducting a little research on this. And he in fact ordered me dinner because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thank YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanks for spending some time to discuss this matter here on your web page.

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  189. Having read this I thought it was rather enlightening. I appreciate you finding the time and effort to put this article together. I once again find myself spending a lot of time both reading and posting comments. But so what, it was still worth it!

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