Как выбрать маршрут из Порту в Сантьяго-де-Компостелу? — КРАМАР БЛОГ
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Как выбрать маршрут из Порту в Сантьяго-де-Компостелу?

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Португальский Путь Сантьяго: Вила ду Конде

Если вы решили пройти Путь Сантьяго, то наверняка знаете, что единственно верного и правильного пути нет. Путь Святого Иакова — это огромная развитая сеть маршрутов, которые меняются год от года в зависимости от природы, изменения схем движения в городах, прокладки новых шоссе.

В принципе, путь более или менее постоянный, но бывают изменения, поэтому каждое начало сезона монахи, первый паломники и активисты рисуют краской новые стрелки и обновляют старые. Поэтому не удивляйтесь, если где-то стрелки будут зачеркнуты. Значит скорее всего какой-то фермер перекрыл проход или закрыли пешеходных переход через автомагистраль.

По берегу или нет?

Итак, если вы решили стартовать из Порту, а не из Франции (самые популярные маршруты), то вам следует знать, что из Порту стартует два официальных пути: центральный (Caminho Português) и прибрежный (Caminho Português da Costa). Примерно в каждом городе можно свернуть с одного на другой, а потом вернуться обратно, если не понравится.

В августе не у океана было очень душно, поэтому мы выбрали Косту. Все-таки Атлантика холодная, и ветерок с нее очень сильно упрощает путь по 30км в день на солнце. Кроме того, в прибрежных городочках больше рыбных ресторанов, а я очень люблю, как португальцы готовят рыбу. Таким образом, что выбрать и как пойти решать в первую очередь вам, чуть ниже подробное описание маршрутов и их километраж.

Caminho Portugues da Costa

Произносится как «Камино Португеш да Коста» и дословно переводится как «Португальский путь по берегу». Но и у него есть несколько путей: «исторический», «строго прибрежный» и «комбинированный». Разницы между ними особо нет, разве что в двух последних надо использовать паром, так как в устье реки Миньо до сих пор нет моста.

Камино Португеш де Коста: три варианта идти вдоль океана.

Исторический прибрежный путь Сантьяго (270км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Фан — Эшпозенде — Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — Вила Нова де Сервейра — Валенса ду Минью — Туи — Пориньо — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела.

Без использования парома, самый короткий из прибрежных и сливается в историческим центральным путем в городе Валенса, перед испанской частью. Еще из плюсов, заходит почти в тысячелетнюю деревню Ратеш. Для меня этот вариант был самый предпочтительный.

Прибрежный путь Сантьяго (280 км): Порту — Матозиньюш — Вила-ду-Конди — Повуа-ди-Варзин — Фан — Эшпозенде — Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — ПАРОМ —Ла-Гуардия — Ойа — Байона — A Рамаллоса — Виго — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела.

Отличается от предыдущего тем, что в Каминье продолжает идти по побережью, используя для этого паром. Расписание парома доступно в любом кафе города. Так же есть taxi mar, если вы проспите паром.

Комбинированный (290 км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Фан — Эшпозенде —Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — ПАРОМ —Ла-Гуардия — Ойа — Байона — A Рамаллоса — Виго — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела

Португальский путь Сантьяго: вид на Атлантический океан
Атлантический океан, вдоль которого вы часто будете идти.

Португальский путь Сантьяго (Caminho Portugues)

Произносится как «Камино Португеш» и дословно переводится как «Португальский путь». Иногда к нему добавляют слово «Сентраль», так как он идет по центру Португалии. Считается историческим, и именно так ходили паломники тысячу лет назад. В принципе, первая переправа через реку Миньо была не в устье, а посередине, между городами Валенса-Туи. Это «историческое» преодоление границы между Португалией и испанией.

Центральный (240 км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Барселош — Понде де Лима — Рубаеш — Валенса (Туи) — Пориньо — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш — Падрон — Сантьяго-Де-Компостела.

Что выбрали мы?

Рано утром в Порту мы долго думали, куда нам идти, к побережью или вглубь Португалии. Решили поехать на метро до конечной станции Вила-ду-Конди (Vila do Conde) и там определиться. В итоге получилось, что в первый день мы заглянули и в Ратеш, и почти дошли до Эшпошенде. Что примерно равнялось двухдневной норме. Более подробно про именно наш Путь Святого Иакова можно прочитать тут.

А какой вам приглянулся и какой больше хочется пройти?

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  309. Time is often called the soul of motion, the great measure of change, but what if it is merely an illusion? What if we are not moving forward but simply circling the same points, like the smoke from a burning fire, curling back onto itself, repeating patterns we fail to recognize? Maybe the past and future are just two sides of the same moment, and all we ever have is now.

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  342. Even the gods, if they exist, must laugh from time to time. Perhaps what we call tragedy is merely comedy from a higher perspective, a joke we are too caught up in to understand. Maybe the wisest among us are not the ones who take life the most seriously, but those who can laugh at its absurdity and find joy even in the darkest moments.

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  366. The cosmos is said to be an ordered place, ruled by laws and principles, yet within that order exists chaos, unpredictability, and the unexpected. Perhaps true balance is not about eliminating chaos but embracing it, learning to see the beauty in disorder, the harmony within the unpredictable. Maybe to truly understand the universe, we must stop trying to control it and simply become one with its rhythm.

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