Второй день Пути Сантьяго: Фан — Каштелу-ду-Нейва — КРАМАР БЛОГ
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Второй день Пути Сантьяго: Фан — Каштелу-ду-Нейва

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Проснувшись в 7 утра и жутко замерзнув ночью, мы пошли есть завтрак, который входил в стоимость хостела. Завтрак мне не понравился, но прихватив с собой по йогурту, мы снова вышли на тропу. Солнце уже давно встало и по нему было понятно, что день будет очень жаркий, собственно, из-за этой жары мы очень рано закончили и прошли всего 16 км.

Утро в Фане, солнце уже высоко.
Котики тоже просыпаются.

Наш хостел находился недалеко от пожарной части, где есть постоянная экспозиция, посвященная этому непростому делу, в ней также много красивых пожарных машин, в том числе и старенькая с песком. На улице на стене пожарной части висит много фотографий и информации о том, как это все работает. Мне было интересно, но долго задерживаться не стали.

Памятник к 80-летию местной пожарной службы.

Почти сразу за пожарной частью мы завернули на мост через реку Каваду, чтобы перебраться на другой берег в город Эшпозенди, где хотели вчера закончить путь. Утром в реке было много рыбацких лодочек, но практически не было рыбаков, видимо они снасти так расставляют, а может швартуются далеко от берега, чтобы не сесть на мель.

Утро над рекой Каваду.

Вообще переход Фан—Эшпозенди очень живописный, он идет вдоль устья Каваду вплоть до впадения ее в океан.

Река Каваду, вид на город Фан.

Отмель в устье реки Каваду: когда в океане прилив, оно наполняется водой, но сейчас вода отступила. Над отмелью кружит много птиц, которые охотятся на рачков и рыбок, которые не успели удрать вместе с отливом.

Отметь в устье реки Каваду.

На другом берегу нас ожидает город Эшпозенди. Город по местным меркам крупный и интересный, что-то вроде наших райцентров.

Подходим к Эшпозенди.

Эшпозенди знаменит своим протяженным и чистейшим пляжем, где Каваду впадает в Атлантический океан, вдоль которого и идет Португальский Путь Сантьяго по обустроенным деревянным дорожкам, так что песка много в ботинки не наберете.

Название города на городском пляже.

На пляже, разумеется, тоже отлив, поэтому видно много тины и водорослей, а также почти отсутствуют волны в океане. Но все равно очень красиво и свежо.

Отлив в Эшпозенди.

Здесь же, на входе в город расположился старый форт Сан-Жуан-Баптиста-де-Эшпозенде, весьма скромного размера. Сейчас в нем прячется невысокий красный маяк.

Старый форт в Эшпозенди (Forte de São João Baptista de Esposende)

Когда мы зашли в город, то удивились его красочности. Повсюду весели флажки, ходили люди в исторических костюмах, явно к чему-то готовились торговцы. В общем было стойкое ощущение, что вот вот начнется какой-то местечковый праздник.

Фестиваль в Эшпозенди.

Я не очень люблю путешествия с жестким планом и маршрутом, потому что в них практически отсутствует возможность внезапно попасть на местный праздник, потому что о половине таких мероприятий знают только жители маленьких городков. Поэтому когда мне случайно удается что-то такое увидеть, я очень радуюсь, как будто выиграла в туристическую лотерею.

Фестиваль в Эшпозенди.

Так как фестиваль еще не начался, то оставаться в городе смысла не было, и мы потихоньку начали выходить из него в Мариньяш.

Кладбище в Эшпозенди.
Шикарно оборудованная тропа.

Мариньяш по сравнению с Эшпозенди очень маленький, его можно просто пройти. Но в нем также есть и альберги, и даже какое-то кафе.

Церковь Матери Сан-Мигель Арканджо дас Мариньяс (Igreja Matriz de São Miguel Arcanjo das Marinhas)

По пути вам откроется сельская жизнь португальцев, так как заборчики там низкие, то видно все, что они сажают. В Ленинградской области и не снился такой урожай дынь.

Дыни по всему участку.

Самой же популярной местной культурой является кукуруза, так же как и в испанской Галисии. В Португалии к началу сентября ее уже убирают, у нас же под Петербургом в это время даст бог початок станет больше среднего размера, про зрелость и говорить нечего.

Кукуруза сушится на крыльце.

Потом мы пришли в Белинью, солнце жарило очень сильно, а мы уже хотели есть. Отличным решением было бы зайти в кафе, поесть и заодно на час скрыться от солнца, но с кафе в Белинью незадача.

Вход в Белинью.

То, что показывается как ресторан на самом деле пивная для местного сомнительного контингента, где из еды только соленый арахис. В другом же, расположенном прямо на трассе так сильно пахло горелым жиром и было жарче чем на улице. В общем не поели мы в Белинью.

Церковь, а за ней начинаются горы.

Зато в Белинью снова видно океан, хоть он и очень далеко. Мы уже знаем, что дальше маршрут поведет нас через лес вдоль русла реки Нейва, и океан будет не видно, поэтому наслаждаемся видами.

Вид на Атлантический океан.

Горы только кажутся безобидными, но подниматься в них на жаре и солнцепеке с рюкзаком достаточно тяжело.

Вид на горы.

Собственно, сразу за Белинью мы начали удаляться от океана в лес, чтобы пройти по маленькому каменному мосту через реку Нейва. Вообще через эту реку есть шикарный и современный мост, но нам не к нему.

Дорога к реке Нейва.

В лесу, кстати, становится сильно легче идти, потому что есть тень от деревьев и солнце не так припекает макушку. Но все равно душновато, ветра практически не было, так как русло по обоим берегам защищено горами.

Указатели, чтобы не сбиться с пути в лесу.

Когда мы спустились ниже к руслу реки, от нее повеяло приятной прохладой. Речка течет в низине, ветра там почти нет, поэтому создался комфортный для ходьбы микроклимат.

Дорога вдоль русла.

Потом, когда мы дошли до каменного мостика, мы решили помочить ноги в холодной воде и перекусить тем, что у нас было с собой, так как стало совсем невыносимо идти дальше не перекусив. У нас был португальский сыр, булка, батончик пикник, йогурты, оставшиеся с завтрака и немного воды. Мы посидели около моста примерно пол часа и с радостью все это умяли.

Мостик, по которому ведет путь.

Затем мы начали подниматься в гору и тут мне стало очень плохо. То ли из-за того, что я стала подниматься прямо после еды, то ли из-за того, что я вышла из холодного воздуха низины в раскаленный на солнце воздух, но у меня помутнело в глазах. Мы планировали дойти до Вьена-ду-Каштелу, но я поняла, что мне это будет не под силу. В итоге свернули к ближайшему альберге, где оказались первыми, поэтому заняли себе хорошие места.

Второй день закончился для нас быстро, но я не люблю преодолевать дискомфорт «для галочки», мне все-таки кажется, что отпуск не должен приносить страданий. Поэтому мы расположились, приняли ледяной душ и пошли в ближайший супермаркет за вином из региона Вино Верде, а вечером сходили на океан и открыли для себя шикарный рыбный ресторан (геометка внизу). Вот так всего в 14.00 закончился наш второй день пути Сантьяго.

Организационная информация

Альберге в городе Каштелу-ду-Нейва

Albergue Castelo do Neiva (Av. de Moldes 565, Португалия)

В Альберге (стоит 6 евро) есть хороший wi-fi, самый лучший душ из всех, что нам встречали на всем пути вплоть до Падрона, шикарная и хорошо оборудованная кухня. Еще как бонус очень смешная, активная и позитивная домовладелица. Все 20 человек любого пола живут в одной комнате на двуспальных кроватях, и ночью там очень душно, особенно если какая-то немка под вентилятором замерзает и выключает его.

Где поужинать в Каштелу-ду-Нейва

Restaurante Segredos Do Mar (J5GM+P4 Pedra Alta, Viana do Castelo)

По пути к пляжу Neiva Castle находится этот шикарный ресторан. Очень вкусная рыба, шикарные морепродукты и большие порции. В ресторан вечером лучше приходить не в шортах, все-таки дресс-код ужина там соблюдается. Карты в лучших португальских традициях не принимают.

Также все самые популярные вопросы про Путь Сантьяго я описала в отдельной длинной заметке.

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