- Маршрут: Валенса — Туй — Порриньо
- Пройденный путь: 23 км
- Осталось до Сантьяго-де-Компостелы: 88 км
- ← предыдущий день, следующий день →
В этот раз проснулись рано. Мы начали догадываться, что теперь конкуренция за муниципальные альберге будет с каждым днем нарастать, так как объединились два португальских пути. Но о раннем подъеме мы совсем не пожалели: утро в Валенсе было самым красивым утром из всех на камино. Вы только посмотрите на эти туман, форт, долину реки Миньо.
Рассвет на Юге наступает очень быстро, в Санкт-Петербурге же небо долго «раскачивается».
Путь проложили через форт. Он, конечно, теперь очень туристический и даже бутафорский, но все равно красиво.
Не было момента, чтобы на глаза не попадались другие паломники.
И вот окончательно рассвело. Пограничный мост с Испанией, нам к нему!
Желтые стрелки почти прямиком ведут на мост через Миньо, в испанскую Галисию. До подписания Шенгенского соглашения по обе стороны моста работали пограничные пункты, здания которых до сих пор на месте и стоят без дела. Может быть там что-то и происходит, но явно не для пеших туристов.
Хоть и как такового процесса прохождения границы нет, ощущения все равно волнительные. Я никогда до этого не приходила в другую страну пешком, с тяжелым рюкзаком и протопав перед этим больше 100 километров. Это не как перейти из Ивангорода в Нарву, это действительно Achievement unlocked!
На самом мосту в пешеходной зоне нарисована линия, показывающая, что именно здесь проходит граница. Так можно оказаться одной ногой в Испании, а другой в Португалии. Все пилигримы, и мы не исключение, фотографируют свои ноги рядом с этим рисунком.
Вообще ноги являются главным действующим лицом камино: их фотографируют, их инстаграмят, их обсуждают, их задирают вечером повыше, чтобы снять усталость. Если вы посмотрите в поиске картинки из Сантьяго-де-Компостелы, то львиная доля будет состоять из фотографий ног на фоне Собора Святого Иакова. Так что да, ноги это важно.
И вот, сходя с моста вы попадаете в испанский город Туй (или Туи). Туй примечателен тем, что находится в 102 километрах от Сантьяго-де-Компостелы, а значит для отпущения грехов достаточно выйти отсюда. Этим пользуются туроператоры и люди, у которых не такой длинный отпуск, как у студентов или пенсионеров. Поэтому готовьтесь, после Туи количество пилигримов возрастет в разы.
В Кафедральном соборе все вновь прибывшие на тропу паломники берут свои паспорта паломников (креденсиаль), благословение и выходят в Сантьяго-де-Компостелу.
Обилие пилигримов является как минусом, так и плюсом: такое количество туристов надо как-то обслуживать. Поэтому кафешек, открывающихся рано (чтобы богатые европейские пилигримы могли насладиться утренним кофе), ресторанов, подающих хорошие обеды, продуктовых и сувенирных магазинов становится заметно больше. Это сильно упрощает жизнь.
Пейзажи при этом тоже редко бывают без домов и людей, видимо, в Галисии живет больше людей, чем на севере Португалии. Мы очень сильно переживали, что альберге будут переполнены, но ситуация была не критичной. Все-таки большинство обеспеченных европейцев старались останавливаться в хороших гостиницах или жили в комфортабельных хостелах, у которых была яркая и видная реклама.
Сам по себе Порриньо ничем не примечательный. Разве что есть интересная зеленая аллея.
Мост, проходящий через весь город. Почти как на Канонерском острове, да?
Очень скромная набережная.
Тоже ищущая через весь город.
И есть очень узкая улица (или просто зазор между домами), который, на мой взгляд уже, чем знаменитая достопримечательность Праги. Думаю, Порриньо недостает такого количества туристов, чтобы популяризовать это место.
Так и закончился шестой день. Я уже начала скучать по Португалии. Так же начинает копиться усталость, которая особенно проявляется на фоне «свеженьких» пилигримов.
Организационная информация
Где пообедать в пути
Дальше я об этой проблеме писать не буду, так как кафе теперь действительно много. Цены везде примерно одинаковые, так что останавливайтесь там, где вам действительно удобно и приятно. В Галисии точно нет с этом проблем.
Альберге в Порриньо
Albergue de Peregrinos de O Porriño (Av. Buenos Aires, 17, 36400 O Porriño, PO, Испания)
Мы успели в муниципальный альберге в Порриньо, но это стоило нам более часа сидения в очереди. Стоит он 6 евро, выглядит очень аскетично, в нем нет кухни и даже тарелок и столовых приборов. Заявляют, что есть wi-fi, но у меня не получилось в нем зарегистрироваться. У девушек с Украины, с которыми мы познакомились, тоже с переменным успехом: у одной получилось, у другой нет. Матрасы ужасные и неудобные, как в инфекционной больнице, зато хороший душ. Ровно в 22.00 выключается свет и закрываются двери на вход и выход. Открываются потом в 5.00 утра.
Где поужинать в Порриньо
BAR LICEUM (Rúa Ramón González, 16, 36400 O Porriño, Pontevedra, Испания)
Если в Португалии к обеду пилигрима подается только вино или вода, то тут уже появляется пиво, как правило марки Estrella Galicia. А еще, но я думаю с различием стран это мало связано, все-таки больше с обилием пилигримов, резко расширяется меню.
Прачечная самообслуживания (Lavandería autoservicio)
El Tendal (bajo, Av. Buenos Aires, 16, 36400 O Porriño, Pontevedra, Испания)
Очень удобно, что прямо недалеко от альберге есть прачечная самообслуживания (на самом деле в самом альберге тоже есть стиральная машина, но попробуй еще успеть в нее что-то закинуть). Как раз за почти неделю пути какие-то вещи хочется простирнуть. Мы познакомились в очереди с девушкой из Словакии, у которой был всего пакет вещей, у нас тоже было немного, и мы решили занять одну машинку. Стоимость, разумеется, разделили.
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About the Author: Stephen Holmes is a Senior Vice President at Hypo Venture Capital, with experience in the Financial Services industry spanning over 25ys and 3 Continents.
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