Исследуя Хордаланн трудно миновать город Лейрвик (Leirvik, не путать с одноименной кроватью IKEA), особенно учитывая тот факт, что находится он в устье второго по величине и далеко не последнего по красоте фьорда Норвегии: Хардангер-фьорда (Hardangerfjorden).
Немного истории Лейрвика
Лейрвик — административный центр коммуны Стун (Stord), который получил статус города сравнительно недавно, в 1997 году. Также он является центром традиционного района времен викингов — Сунхордланн (Sunnhordland), в который входят много коммун Южного Хордаланна, например остров Эспевер. В городе находятся музей района Сунхордланн, региональные офисы местных компаний, школы и даже колледж. Название города переводится с древнескандинавского языка как «глиняный залив» — «leire» означает «глина» и «vik» означает «залив». Население в городе небольшое, чуть меньше 14000 человек.
Марина в Лейрвике
Если вы собираетесь прибыть в Лейрвик на яхте, то нужно приготовиться, что здесь самая дорогая марина, которую мы встречали. Но есть небольшой лайфхак: в несезон (март — несезон) отплыть чуть раньше 7 утра, тогда вам не выпишут счет, потому что человек, который этим занимается к тому моменту не придет на работу. Так поступать, конечно же, нехорошо. Но мы так поступили. Мне было стыдно.
Если смотреть на Лейрвик с моря, то он производит впечатление промышленного центра, больше похожего на промзону. Кораблики проплывают в большинстве своем тоже грузовые, но есть большая марина с явно прогулочными яхтами.
В Норвегии нет высоких по российским меркам гор, пейзажи будут скорее напоминать Хибины и Урал. Приятно, что в марте на вершинах еще сохранился снежный покров, несмотря на уже зеленеющие газоны и кустарники. Марина украшена декоративной аркой, но рядом не было таблички, поэтому я не знаю, что она символизирует. Декоративная функция тоже сомнительная, так как стекло быстро теряется из виду, особенно в сумеречное время.
Рестораны и магазины
Лейрвик чем-то похож на райцентр в российской глубинке. В нем вроде как есть всё необходимое: школа, администрация, сельпо, кафе и церковь, но это все закрывается рано, или вовсе не работает в нужный вам день. Следующая фотография сделана примерно в 17.25: на главной магазинной улице не работает ни один магазин, кроме дрожери-сети Narvesen. Но с другой стороны, обычно в такие города приезжаешь не шопинга ради, поэтому отсутствие магазинов можно спокойно пережить.
С ресторанами чуть лучше, они работают до 22.00-23.00 часов. Меню скромное, не по 20 позиций в каждом типе блюда, но выбрать есть из чего. Почему-то норвежцы не жалуют супы (я ни разу не увидела в меню уху, хотя казалось бы), но есть стейки и треска с простым гарниром, по сносным для этой страны ценам. Кстати, совет: чтобы не портить пищеварение, не переводите цены на еду в рубли. Да и вообще не переводите цены в рубли.
Церковь Stord Kyrkje в Лейрвике
До 1855 года на этом месте стояло другое здание, которое было построено, вероятно, в XIV веке. Маленькая церковь, находившаяся в плачевном состоянии, не соответствовала нуждам коммуны, поэтому церковь было решено снести, чтобы построить новую. Сразу после Дня Святой Троицы в 1855 году церковь была снесена, а уже через два года, в 1857 году, была построена новая, которую мы видим сейчас.
Общее впечателние от Лейрвика
Так как мы были в Лейрвике меньше суток, я не могу строго судить о туристическом потенциале городка. Но за эти сутки я прогулялась по главным улицам, осмотрелась и поняла, что делать там больше в принципе и нечего. В Лейрвике видно, что город больше административный, экономический центр района, чем культурный. Но проездом посетить город и посмотреть его красивейшую церковь, конечно же, стоит.
За фото из поездки спасибо Наташе, а почитать еще про другие города, в которых мы останавливались можно по ссылкам: Хёугесунн → Эспевер → Лейрвик → Росендал → Хюснес → Лангевог → Хёугесунн.
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