На яхте в Норвегии. День 3: Лейрвик — Русендал — КРАМАР БЛОГ

На яхте в Норвегии. День 3: Лейрвик — Русендал

Вид на марину Русендаля, Норвегия

Город Росендал (Rosendal), Норвегия является пунктом назначения путешествия «Норвежская весна». Название города дословно переводится как «долина роз», и я толком не поняла, является ли он городом, деревней, поселком, так как в нем проживают менее 800 человек, но он является райцентром, поэтому, дальше я буду употребять существительное «город».

Русендал, Норвегия: фото с причалов марины.
Вид на Росендал из марины.

Где находится и как добраться

Росендал находится в Хордаллане на южном берегу Хардангер-фьорда. Является административным центром муниципалитета Kvinnherad. Город расположен примерно в 40 километрах по прямой от Лейрвика и чуть менее 80 километрах от Хеугесунна на северо-восток.

Самым простым (и красивым) способом добраться до Росендаля является паром или яхта. Из Бергена до Росендаля паром идет около 2 часов, а вы в это время любуетесь видами третьего по длине фьорда в мире. В местной марине есть все условия для комфортной стоянки яхты: электричество, вода, в т.ч. питьевая, туристический центр.

Если вы путешествуете по Норвегии на машине, то ориентировочное время поездки от Бергена до Росендаля составит 2,5 часа. Остановиться можно в местных отелях (2 шт.), а вот на airbnb я не нашла ни одного предложения.

Русендал: фото марины и причалов.
Русендал солнечным утром и очень прозрачная вода.

История основания города

Принято считать, что Росендал основали в 1650-е, времена, когда Норвегия поддерживала очень хорошие отношения с Данией. По преданию, один датский дворянин — Людвиг Розенкранц — встретил на балу во время своего визита в Берген Карен Моуотт, единственную наследницу очень крупного землевладельца страны. Ее отец имел более 550 хозяйств, разбросанных по всей западной части Норвегии. Карен и Людвиг поженились, и получили в подарок землю, на которой в 1661 году началось строительство усадьбы, которое завершилось в 1665 году.

Русендал, Норвегия: фото марины и Хардангер-фьорда. Пирсы марины и берега Хардангер-фьорда.

Куда сходить и что посмотреть

В Русендале так много достопримечательностей, что они достойны отдельного поста.

Фото ледника Фолгевонна и Kvinnherad Church
Вид на ледник Фолгефонна и Kvinnherad Church

Магазины и кафе в Росендале

В Росендале есть достаточно большой по норвежским меркам супермаркет SPAR. А вот часы работы традиционно норвежские: рано закрываются, поздно открываются и в воскресенье ничего не купить и никуда на пойти, кроме церкви. Здесь продается свежая выпечка, кофе с собой, овощи, фрукты, молочка и т.п. Есть также все для мангала: уголь, жидкость для розжига, щепки и т.п. Есть небольшой отдел с местными газетами, беллетристикой, открытками и сувенирами.

Открытки можно отправить тут же, так как в этом здании находится местное почтовое отделение, где можно купить марки. На почте нельзя купить ничего, кроме телефонных карт и оплатить почтовые услуги.

Напротив SPAR находится маленький книжный магазин, названия которого я не помню. В нем я купила себе отрывной To Do List с красивым дизайном и блокнот, куда начала вносить путевые заметки. Я обычно покупаю себе книги в поездках, но тут ни на что глаз не лёг.

В соседнем здании, а также в Baroniet Rosendal, в отелях и около мэрии находятся кафе. Меню скромное, но кофе варят вкусный. Хотя я не знаю, какой должен быть кофе, чтобы выйти из кафе, оглядеться вокруг, глотнуть кофе и настроение испортилось.

Про магазины одежды, рыболовных принадлежностей и т.п. я не знаю, так как не очень представляю себе ситуации, когда это действительно может понадобиться во время путешествия под парусом.

Русендал, Норвегия: фото марины и ледника Фолгефонна.
Вид на ледник Фолгефонна с марины солнечным утром.

Подведу итоги

Росендаль — очень интересный город, чтобы проигнорировать его, если он находится на пути. Я не знаю, стоит ли ехать туда специально, но я бы в сезон цветения роз поехала и не пожалела 4 часа на дорогу (из Бергена и обратно). В городе определенно есть на что посмотреть, особенно любителю природы: водопад, сады, пасущиеся овцы. Мне очень понравился замок, он безумно уютный, понравилось просто пройтись и полюбоваться залитыми солнцем видами. У меня остались только положительные впечатления, как и от Эспевэра, поэтому я рекомендую заехать и остановиться в городе хотя бы на денек.

P.S. отплытие из марины

Вход в марину Росендаля — что-то невообразимое по красоте. Я не буду описывать плавность обветренных скал, красоту видов, а просто прикреплю фотографии.

Фото Росендал, Норвегия. навигация
Знак обыгран как подводная лодка.
Русендал, норвегия: фото ледника Фолгефонна с воды.
Вид на ледник Фолгефонна, Хордаланн.
Русендал, Норвегия: фото скал Хардангер-фьорда.
Берег Хардангер-фьорда.
Русендал, Норвегия: фото скалистых берегов Хардангер-фьорда.
Вид на скалистых берег Хардангер-фьорда на закате.
За фото из поездки спасибо Наташе, а почитать еще про другие города, в которых мы останавливались можно по ссылкам:

Хёугесунн → Эспевер → Лейрвик → Росендал → Хюснес → Лангевог → Хёугесунн.

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