На яхте в Норвегии. День 2: Эспевер — Лервик — КРАМАР БЛОГ
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На яхте в Норвегии. День 2: Эспевер — Лервик

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Исследуя Хордаланн трудно миновать город Лейрвик (Leirvik, не путать с одноименной кроватью IKEA), особенно учитывая тот факт, что находится он в устье второго по величине и далеко не последнего по красоте фьорда Норвегии: Хардангер-фьорда (Hardangerfjorden).

Лейрвик: фото марины вечером
Вечерний вид в марине Лейрвика

Немного истории Лейрвика

Лейрвик — административный центр коммуны Стун (Stord), который получил статус города сравнительно недавно,  в 1997 году. Также он является центром традиционного района времен викингов — Сунхордланн (Sunnhordland), в который входят много коммун Южного Хордаланна, например остров Эспевер. В городе находятся музей района Сунхордланн, региональные офисы местных компаний, школы и даже колледж. Название города переводится с древнескандинавского языка как «глиняный залив» — «leire» означает «глина» и «vik» означает «залив». Население в городе небольшое, чуть меньше 14000 человек.

Марина в Лейрвике

Если вы собираетесь прибыть в Лейрвик на яхте, то нужно приготовиться, что здесь самая дорогая марина, которую мы встречали. Но есть небольшой лайфхак: в несезон (март — несезон) отплыть чуть раньше 7 утра, тогда вам не выпишут счет, потому что человек, который этим занимается к тому моменту не придет на работу. Так поступать, конечно же, нехорошо. Но мы так поступили. Мне было стыдно.

Закат в городе Лейрвик, Норвегия: фото
Норвежский закат в Лейрвике.

Если смотреть на Лейрвик с моря, то он производит впечатление промышленного центра, больше похожего на промзону. Кораблики проплывают в большинстве своем тоже грузовые, но есть большая марина с явно прогулочными яхтами.

В Норвегии нет высоких по российским меркам гор, пейзажи будут скорее напоминать Хибины и Урал. Приятно, что в марте на вершинах еще сохранился снежный покров, несмотря на уже зеленеющие газоны и кустарники. Марина украшена декоративной аркой, но рядом не было таблички, поэтому я не знаю, что она символизирует. Декоративная функция тоже сомнительная, так как стекло быстро теряется из виду, особенно в сумеречное время.

Лейрвик: фотография декоративной арки в марине.
Арка в марине Лейрвика.

Рестораны и магазины

Лейрвик чем-то похож на райцентр в российской глубинке. В нем вроде как есть всё необходимое: школа, администрация, сельпо, кафе и церковь, но это все закрывается рано, или вовсе не работает в нужный вам день. Следующая фотография сделана примерно в 17.25: на главной магазинной улице не работает ни один магазин, кроме дрожери-сети Narvesen. Но с другой стороны, обычно в такие города приезжаешь не шопинга ради, поэтому отсутствие магазинов можно спокойно пережить.

Лейрвик: фото улицы с магазинами в Хордаланне, Норвегия.
Главная улица Лейрвика

С ресторанами чуть лучше, они работают до 22.00-23.00 часов. Меню скромное, не по 20 позиций в каждом типе блюда, но выбрать есть из чего. Почему-то норвежцы не жалуют супы (я ни разу не увидела в меню уху, хотя казалось бы), но есть стейки и треска с простым гарниром, по сносным для этой страны ценам. Кстати, совет: чтобы не портить пищеварение, не переводите цены на еду в рубли. Да и вообще не переводите цены в рубли.

Фото Лейрвика, Норвегия
Закат на променадной улице в Лейрвике

Церковь Stord Kyrkje в Лейрвике

Фото Stord Kyrkje в Лейрвике, Норвегия.
Вид на Stord Kyrkje с причалов марины.

До 1855 года на этом месте стояло другое здание, которое было построено, вероятно, в XIV веке. Маленькая церковь, находившаяся в плачевном состоянии, не соответствовала нуждам коммуны, поэтому церковь было решено снести, чтобы построить новую. Сразу после Дня Святой Троицы в 1855 году церковь была снесена, а уже через два года, в 1857 году, была построена новая, которую мы видим сейчас.

Общее впечателние от Лейрвика

Так как мы были в Лейрвике меньше суток, я не могу строго судить о туристическом потенциале городка. Но за эти сутки я прогулялась по главным улицам, осмотрелась и поняла, что делать там больше в принципе и нечего. В Лейрвике видно, что город больше административный, экономический центр района, чем культурный. Но проездом посетить город и посмотреть его красивейшую церковь, конечно же, стоит.

За фото из поездки спасибо Наташе, а почитать еще про другие города, в которых мы останавливались можно по ссылкам:

Хёугесунн → Эспевер → Лейрвик → Росендал → Хюснес → Лангевог → Хёугесунн.

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  1081. Boat ownership also comes with responsibilities. Regular maintenance keeps the boat running smoothly and extends its lifespan. Engine servicing, hull cleaning, and checking for wear and tear are part of routine upkeep. Many owners store their boats in marinas or dry docks to protect them from harsh weather conditions. Insurance is another important factor, as it covers potential damages and liabilities. Whether using a boat for recreation or business, proper care and maintenance are key to ensuring safe and enjoyable trips.

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