Мы продолжаем изучать Стамбул и посещать его разные уголки. Кто-то говорит, что Лондон это 20 деревень, но побывав и там, и там, могу с уверенностью сказать, что более разного города, чем Стамбул я не встречала. Кстати, популярное окончание названий местных районов —кёй (-köy) как раз переводится как «деревня», так что можно еще поспорить, кто тут «город деревень«.
Итак, субботу 6 мая, которая по совместительству еще и годовщина нашей свадьбы, мы посвятили району Кузгунджук в Азиатской части. Он расположен в долине, выходящей к Босфору в ильче Ускюдар (на север от одноименной пристани) и знаменит тем, что часто выступает декорациями для турецких сериалов. Кроме того, Кузгунджук имеет славу мультикультурного и многоконфессионального поселения, что Анатолии не свойственно. Такой своеобразный уголок «византийской Европы» в Азии. Так зачем туда ехать и что смотреть?
Яркие домики
Не удивительно, что в Кузгунджуке часто проходят съемки, потому что тут очень колоритная и необычная застройка. Небольшие деревянные двухэтажные домики выкрашены в яркие цвета. А на первых этажах расположены многочисленные кафе, лавки художников и ремесленников, которые тоже со вкусом подходят к оформлению вывесок, столиков и витрин, поэтому просто посмотреть и поглазеть на это приятно (особенно после классического турецкого дизайна и торговли).
По сути это район, очень похожий на Адаларские острова, потому что домики здесь преимущественно в колониальном стиле: деревянные балки, узкие фасады, высокие окна и двери. А еще здесь очень много зелени и сильно любимых турками котиков.
Улица в честь турецкого сериала
Думаю, многие со мной согласятся, но турецкие сериалы это такой же феномен, как и корейские дорамы или бразильские мыльные оперы. Но мало какой сериал может похвастаться тем, что в честь него названа улица, да еще и в одном из величайших городов мира. В 1986 году на экраны Турции вышел сериал «Сестра Перихан» (тур. Perihan Abla). Говорят, он очень понравился зрителям, но я не смотрю сериалы, поэтому порекомендовать не могу. Улицу, на которой проходили съемки переименовали в Улицу сестры Перихан (тур. Perihan Abla Sokağı).
Общественный огород
В центре района расположен общественный огород Кузгунджук Бостани (тур. Kuzguncuk Bostanı). Наверное, один из самых известных огородов Стамбула. Раньше я видела подобное только в Берлине. Это общественное пространство, где каждая грядка закреплена за каким-то человеком и он может посадить на нее все, что захочет. Обязательное условие, что это должны быть однолетники.
Мы были весной, поэтому буйства зелени и красок на грядках еще не было. Но уже колосились бобы (некоторые даже цвели), высаженная рассада перцев и томатов, обилие зелени и салатов. Грядочки смотрятся ухоженно, все за забором. Посмотреть можно, а вот «помочь» собрать урожай нельзя.
Вдоль забора образовалась стихийная торговля. Я не уверена, что продаваемые овощи выращены именно в Кузгунджук Бостани, так как у них не тот сезон созревания, но цены приемлемые, а выбор маленький. Помимо овощей тут продают изделия ручной работы и всякие хозяйственные мелочи.
Мечеть, церковь и синагога на одной улице
Мечетями в Стамбуле никого не удивишь, а вот с христианскими храмами и уж тем более синагогами в Азиатской части туго. Кузгунджук поселение древнее, с многовековой историей и история эта была богата на события. Место то прям у Босфора притягательное. Здесь есть христианские и армянские храмы, а от евреев сохранилось кладбище на холме Наккаштепе и две синагоги (обе восстановленные на деньги евреев и без прихода). Примечательно, что практически ничего из перечисленного не переделали в мечети, хотя могли бы поступить как с Собором Святой Софии.
Понятное дело, что от армян, евреев и христиан здесь осталось только высеченное в камне, а сами люди уехали. Кто-то добровольно, а кто-то не очень, так как с иноверцами турки не церемонились. Но все равно, по меркам анатолийской части Стамбула это очень мультикультурный район.
Вид на Босфор
Главная артерия Кузгунджука перпендикулярна Босфору, поэтому гуляя по İcadiye Cd так или иначе спустишься на набережную. Кузгунджук располагается напротив Бешикташа и у него есть собственная пристань на линии Boğaz Hattı (Bosforus Line), которая идет по всему проливу с юга на север и обратно. К сожалению, кораблики останавливаются нечасто, буквально пару раз за день, так что приезжать сюда лучше либо на метро на линии M5, а потом идти пешком, либо на автобусе.
Тем не менее, здесь спокойно можно подойти к Босфору и посидеть на лавочке, лузгая турецкие семечки или выпив турецкого чаю. Я люблю смотреть на проплывающие мимо кораблики и на то, как чайки пытаются выклянчить у туристов и местных какую-нибудь еду. Турецкий чай тоже люблю, в отличие от кофе.
Кафе и рестораны
Как вы уже поняли, основной досуг тут это променад. У нас как раз была еще и годовщина свадьбы, поэтому мы решили отметить ее пообедав в местном кафе. Здесь очень много ресторанов с рыбой, морепродуктами, а так же кондитерских, где делают вкусные десерты. С кофе в Турции беда, это после России ни для кого не секрет, с десертами тоже на самом деле не все гладко. Но именно здесь можно отведать что-то приближенного к европейской кухне, вроде панна-котты или муссового торта.
Конечно, в Стамбуле бесчисленное множество мест, где можно гулять. Один только район Фатих можно изучать месяцами. Но для меня туристический Стамбул очень шумный, я от него быстро устаю, поэтому мы старались находить более камерные и тихие места. Кузгунджук как раз такой: компактный, изолированный и не очень наполненных людьми. К тому же близко от Босфора, поэтому до него очень удобно добираться. Я рекомендую до него прогуляться, если будете на азиатской стороне.
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