Португальский путь Сантьяго (6 день): Валенса — Порриньо

Шестой день Пути Сантьяго: Валенса — Порриньо

В этот раз проснулись рано. Мы начали догадываться, что теперь конкуренция за муниципальные альберге будет с каждым днем нарастать, так как объединились два португальских пути. Но о раннем подъеме мы совсем не пожалели: утро в Валенсе было самым красивым утром из всех на камино. Вы только посмотрите на эти туман, форт, долину реки Миньо.

Дымка над рекой Миньо и форт в Валенсе.

Рассвет на Юге наступает очень быстро, в Санкт-Петербурге же небо долго «раскачивается».

Дорога проходит через форт, показывая последние виды Португалии.

Путь проложили через форт. Он, конечно, теперь очень туристический и даже бутафорский, но все равно красиво.

Форт Валенсы (Португалия)

Не было момента, чтобы на глаза не попадались другие паломники.

Плотность пилигримов

И вот окончательно рассвело. Пограничный мост с Испанией, нам к нему!

Очень быстро светает.

Желтые стрелки почти прямиком ведут на мост через Миньо, в испанскую Галисию. До подписания Шенгенского соглашения по обе стороны моста работали пограничные пункты, здания которых до сих пор на месте и стоят без дела. Может быть там что-то и происходит, но явно не для пеших туристов.

Хоть и как такового процесса прохождения границы нет, ощущения все равно волнительные. Я никогда до этого не приходила в другую страну пешком, с тяжелым рюкзаком и протопав перед этим больше 100 километров. Это не как перейти из Ивангорода в Нарву, это действительно Achievement unlocked!

Португалия.

На самом мосту в пешеходной зоне нарисована линия, показывающая, что именно здесь проходит граница. Так можно оказаться одной ногой в Испании, а другой в Португалии. Все пилигримы, и мы не исключение, фотографируют свои ноги рядом с этим рисунком.

Нейтральные воды…Миньо!

Вообще ноги являются главным действующим лицом камино: их фотографируют, их инстаграмят, их обсуждают, их задирают вечером повыше, чтобы снять усталость. Если вы посмотрите в поиске картинки из Сантьяго-де-Компостелы, то львиная доля будет состоять из фотографий ног на фоне Собора Святого Иакова. Так что да, ноги это важно.

Графити в Туи (Испания).

И вот, сходя с моста вы попадаете в испанский город Туй (или Туи). Туй примечателен тем, что находится в 102 километрах от Сантьяго-де-Компостелы, а значит для отпущения грехов достаточно выйти отсюда. Этим пользуются туроператоры и люди, у которых не такой длинный отпуск, как у студентов или пенсионеров. Поэтому готовьтесь, после Туи количество пилигримов возрастет в разы.

Кафедральный собор Туи.

В Кафедральном соборе все вновь прибывшие на тропу паломники берут свои паспорта паломников (креденсиаль), благословение и выходят в Сантьяго-де-Компостелу.

Улички города туй (Испания)

Обилие пилигримов является как минусом, так и плюсом: такое количество туристов надо как-то обслуживать. Поэтому кафешек, открывающихся рано (чтобы богатые европейские пилигримы могли насладиться утренним кофе), ресторанов, подающих хорошие обеды, продуктовых и сувенирных магазинов становится заметно больше. Это сильно упрощает жизнь.

Улочки Туи.

Пейзажи при этом тоже редко бывают без домов и людей, видимо, в Галисии живет больше людей, чем на севере Португалии. Мы очень сильно переживали, что альберге будут переполнены, но ситуация была не критичной. Все-таки большинство обеспеченных европейцев старались останавливаться в хороших гостиницах или жили в комфортабельных хостелах, у которых была яркая и видная реклама.

Теперь уже испанские пейзажи.

Сам по себе Порриньо ничем не примечательный. Разве что есть интересная зеленая аллея.

Мост, проходящий через весь город. Почти как на Канонерском острове, да?

Очень скромная набережная.

Тоже ищущая через весь город.

И есть очень узкая улица (или просто зазор между домами), который, на мой взгляд уже, чем знаменитая достопримечательность Праги. Думаю, Порриньо недостает такого количества туристов, чтобы популяризовать это место.

Очень узкая улица. Интересно, легендарная улица со светофором в Праге уже?

Так и закончился шестой день. Я уже начала скучать по Португалии. Так же начинает копиться усталость, которая особенно проявляется на фоне «свеженьких» пилигримов.

Организационная информация

Где пообедать в пути

Дальше я об этой проблеме писать не буду, так как кафе теперь действительно много. Цены везде примерно одинаковые, так что останавливайтесь там, где вам действительно удобно и приятно. В Галисии точно нет с этом проблем.

Альберге в Порриньо

Albergue de Peregrinos de O Porriño (Av. Buenos Aires, 17, 36400 O Porriño, PO, Испания)

Мы успели в муниципальный альберге в Порриньо, но это стоило нам более часа сидения в очереди. Стоит он 6 евро, выглядит очень аскетично, в нем нет кухни и даже тарелок и столовых приборов. Заявляют, что есть wi-fi, но у меня не получилось в нем зарегистрироваться. У девушек с Украины, с которыми мы познакомились, тоже с переменным успехом: у одной получилось, у другой нет. Матрасы ужасные и неудобные, как в инфекционной больнице, зато хороший душ. Ровно в 22.00 выключается свет и закрываются двери на вход и выход. Открываются потом в 5.00 утра.

Где поужинать в Порриньо

BAR LICEUM (Rúa Ramón González, 16, 36400 O Porriño, Pontevedra, Испания)

Если в Португалии к обеду пилигрима подается только вино или вода, то тут уже появляется пиво, как правило марки Estrella Galicia. А еще, но я думаю с различием стран это мало связано, все-таки больше с обилием пилигримов, резко расширяется меню.

Прачечная самообслуживания (Lavandería autoservicio)

El Tendal (bajo, Av. Buenos Aires, 16, 36400 O Porriño, Pontevedra, Испания)

Очень удобно, что прямо недалеко от альберге есть прачечная самообслуживания (на самом деле в самом альберге тоже есть стиральная машина, но попробуй еще успеть в нее что-то закинуть). Как раз за почти неделю пути какие-то вещи хочется простирнуть. Мы познакомились в очереди с девушкой из Словакии, у которой был всего пакет вещей, у нас тоже было немного, и мы решили занять одну машинку. Стоимость, разумеется, разделили.

Порриньо (Испания)

Также все самые популярные вопросы про Путь Сантьяго я описала в отдельной длинной статье

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  93. Thanks for your article. One other thing is that if you are disposing your property yourself, one of the challenges you need to be mindful of upfront is how to deal with home inspection reviews. As a FSBO supplier, the key concerning successfully switching your property in addition to saving money about real estate agent commission rates is information. The more you know, the smoother your home sales effort might be. One area that this is particularly vital is inspection reports.

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  157. I believe that a property foreclosure can have a important effect on the applicant’s life. Foreclosures can have a Six to 10 years negative effects on a applicant’s credit report. A borrower who has applied for a home loan or virtually any loans for that matter, knows that the particular worse credit rating is actually, the more challenging it is to secure a decent personal loan. In addition, it could affect a new borrower’s capability to find a good place to lease or hire, if that gets the alternative housing solution. Thanks for your blog post.

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  231. One thing I’d really like to say is that often before obtaining more computer memory, take a look at the machine in to which it could be installed. When the machine is running Windows XP, for instance, a memory limit is 3.25GB. Putting in in excess of this would basically constitute any waste. Make sure one’s mother board can handle your upgrade amount, as well. Good blog post.

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  237. Today, with all the fast chosen lifestyle that everyone leads, credit cards get this amazing demand throughout the economy. Persons from every field are using credit card and people who not using the credit card have made arrangements to apply for one. Thanks for revealing your ideas about credit cards.

  238. Уведомление: Lila Lovely
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  240. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a coworker who had been conducting a little homework on this. And he in fact bought me breakfast simply because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending some time to discuss this topic here on your web site.

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  243. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a friend who was conducting a little research on this. And he actually bought me dinner simply because I found it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending time to talk about this matter here on your web page.

  244. Thanks for your publication. I would also love to comment that the very first thing you will need to perform is to see if you really need credit score improvement. To do that you will need to get your hands on a copy of your credit report. That should really not be difficult, since government necessitates that you are allowed to get one no cost copy of your real credit report each year. You just have to check with the right people today. You can either check out the website with the Federal Trade Commission or maybe contact one of the leading credit agencies instantly.

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  249. Furthermore, i believe that mesothelioma is a unusual form of cancer malignancy that is typically found in all those previously subjected to asbestos. Cancerous cellular material form from the mesothelium, which is a protective lining that covers most of the body’s bodily organs. These cells usually form inside the lining from the lungs, stomach, or the sac which actually encircles one’s heart. Thanks for discussing your ideas.

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  253. Thanks for your fascinating article. One other problem is that mesothelioma cancer is generally the result of the breathing of fibres from asbestos fiber, which is a positivelly dangerous material. It truly is commonly found among personnel in the structure industry who have long experience of asbestos. It is also caused by moving into asbestos protected buildings for a long time of time, Family genes plays a huge role, and some consumers are more vulnerable towards the risk in comparison with others.

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