Португальский путь Сантьяго (день первый): Порту — Фан

Первый день в Пути Сантьяго: Порту — Фан

  • Маршрут: Порту — Вилу-ду-Конди — Ратеш — Фан
  • Пройденный путь: 59 км (из них 23 км на трамвае)
  • Осталось до Сантьяго-де-Компостелы: 201 км
  • следующий день →

Стартовали в Порту на рассвете. Мы заранее, накануне получили паспорт пилигрима в Кафедральном Соборе Порту и узнали, как именно от нашей гостиницы выйти к заметным желтым стрелкам.

Паспорт паломника с первой отметкой «Кафедральный собор Порту».

Как получить паспорт паломника или Креденсиаль (Credencial) в Порту

Для того, чтобы получить паспорт пилигрима или креденсиаль, надо подойти в Кафедральный собор Порту и взять его на специальной стойке около входа внутри собора. Паспорт стоит символические 1-2€ и без него вас не будут пускать в муниципальные альберге. Также в конце пути, в Сантьяго-де-Компостела без него вам не дадут компостелу, так как не будет «доказательства» того, что вы прошли достаточное для компостелы количество километров.

Кафедральный Собор в Порту.
Внутреннее убранство Собора.
Виды на Порту с площади перед Кафедральным Собором.

Маршрут первого дня

Станция метро Vila do Conde линии B.

Вернемся к дню выхода на маршрут. Выходить из Порту не очень приятно, город все-таки крупный, и идешь мимо промзон, автосервисов, заправок и прочих индустриальных благ. Поэтому мы решили прокатиться на метро до станции Вилу-ду-Конди и тем самым сразу вышли на прибрежный путь. Городок очень понравился, в нем хорошая инфраструктура, можно выпить кофе, позавтракать и начать любоваться Атлантическим океаном.

Акведук в Вила-ду-Конди (Aqueduct of Santa Clara)
Акведук в Вила-ду-Конди (Aqueduct of Santa Clara)
Впадение реки Ави в Атлантический океан.
Церковь Лапа в Вилу-ду-Конди (Igreja Da Lapa), мимо которой лежит путь на Центральный путь Сантьяго.

Виды уже начали заворачивать, но мне хотелось зайти в Ратеш (не знаю, почему, может быть начиталась отчетов других блогеров). Приняли решение свернуть ближе к центру и посмотреть на него.

Приходская Церковь Жункейры и желтые стрелки.
Путь проходит через поля и коровники.
Но есть и такие пейзажи. Это обычный двор какого-то фермера.
Пустые улицы Ратеша.

Этот своеобразный крюк помог нам определиться с маршрутом. Все-таки прибрежный, так как в засушливой центральной части было очень жарко. Настолько жарко, что мне пару раз становилось дурно. Но тут возможно злую шутку сыграло то, что мы вышли не на рассвете, а попозже, и попали в пекло.

Возвращение к Прибрежному пути.

После Ратеша путь лежал в основном через лес. Учитывая жару, это было то, что нужно. Единственная проблема леса это отсутствие инфраструктуры. В лесу не поужинаешь и не поспишь без палатки, поэтому нам нужно было дойти до города Фан (рядом с Эшпозенде).

Указатели Эшпозенде.
Паломники на велосипедах.

Идти до него было прилично, но хорошо, что по пологой местности, почти без перепадов высот. Вообще в первый день идти тяжело, так как организм еще привыкает к рюкзаку, с кроссовкам, к положению ног даже. Он еще не настроился, не понял, как подтянуть лямки и шнуроваться, какую одежду надеть.

Помимо сложностей физических, были сложности отсутствия опыта подобной организации путешествий. Я понятия не имела, как искать альберге и как правильно в них приходить. Поэтому в первый день мы просто посмотрели на booking.com ближайшие хсотелы и забронировали один их них, прямо на берегу реки Каваду.

Церковь Сенхор Бом Хесус де Фао (Igreja Do Senhor Bom Jesus de Fão)

Рядом с этой площадью нам удалось поужинать, так как ноги отказывались куда либо дальше идти, хоть мы и ездили на метро. В общем, без задних ног и с огромным удовольствием скинули рюкзаки, поспрашивали у других паломников, как вообще надо успевать в альберге, где обедать и во сколько выходить. Следующие дни пошли уже более организованно.

Церковь Мизерикордиа-де-Фао (Igreja da Misericórdia de Fão)

Организационная информация

Где пообедать в пути

Restaurante Ritual (R. Tomé Sousa 149, 4570-417 Póvoa de Varzim)

Самый шикарный обед за весь наш Португальский путь, по совместительству и первый. Большая порция горячего (на выбор рыба или мясо), маленькая порция овощного супа, фруктовый салат на десерт, большая бутылка холодной воды и кофе. Стоимость 8,50€ за обед.

Альберге в городе Фан

HI Hostel Ofir — Pousada de Juventude (Alameda do Bom Jesus, 4740-322 Fão)

Это все-таки не совсем классический альберге, а хостел. Стоимость койки с постельным бельем и скромным завтраком € 16,50 на человека. В комнате по 4 человека, мальчики и девочки отдельно. Душей много, горячая вода есть, стиральной машины или тазиков нет.

Где поужинать в Фане

Chalé Tapas Bar (Av. Dr. Henrique Barros Lima A, 4740-322 Fão)

Неплохой и недорогой бар прямо на входе в город. Я ела там набор эмпанадас ( — традиционных маленьких жареных пирожков) и пила пиво. Также есть горячие блюда. Пирожки рекомендую.

Также все самые популярные вопросы про Путь Сантьяго я описала в отдельной длинной заметке.

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