Триест Джеймса Джойса — КРАМАР БЛОГ
НА ОДИН ДЕНЬ, ПУТЕВОДИТЕЛИ, ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ

Триест Джеймса Джойса

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Триест: путеводитель по следам Джеймса Джойса

Что первично: влияние человека на место или места на человека? В современном понимании «гений места» это дух, божество, нечеловеческое начало, влияющее на восприятие места, на его судьбу. Мне же близка трактовка Питера Вайля, которой он придерживается в книге «Гений места», где рассказывает о неразрывной связи городов и гениев, которые в них проживали.

Биографы Джойса отводят главенствующие позиции во влиянии на творчество писателя Дублину. Да, Дублин важен, Дублин необходим, без Дублина никуда, Дублин у Джойса в крови. Но какой он у Джойса? Мультикультурный, многоконфессиональный, свежий, как один небольшой городок, где Джойс жил в юности. Да, я о Триесте.

Портрет писателя в юности

Джойс прожил в Триесте в сумме более 10 лет, входил в кружок социалистов, вопреки этому проникся ирландским национализмом, чем всех триестских знакомых удивил. В этом городе завершилась работа над «Героем Стивеном» и сформировался литературный персонаж Стивен Дедал (как мы знаем, это автобиографичный образ), здесь началась работа над «Улиссом», и здесь же были дописаны легендарные «Дублинцы».

Стоит ли говорить, что многие литературные критики считают, что на своеобразные язык «Поминок по Финнегану» в большей степени повлиял триестино — местный диалект итальянского, с примесями словенского, немецкого и других языков, на котором говорили жители портового, шумного и живого Триеста? Мне, наверное, говорить не стоит, ведь я не лингвист и не литературовед, но мне хочется в это верить.

«Портрет художника в юности» одна из моих любимых книг. Но когда я покупала билеты в Триест, я понятия не имела, что главный герой книги был дописан, додуман здесь, в Италии (тогда еще части Австрийской империи), в теплых пейзажах, на берегу Адриатического моря, ведь книга предельно ирландская. Но говорят, Джойс умел чувствовать Ирландию везде. И я предлагаю прогуляться по Триесту по мотивам жизни писателя.

Маршрут

Маршрут начинается на Центральном железнодорожном вокзале. Во времена Габсбургов он назывался Южным, так как Триест был главным (и единственным) крупным портом Австрийской империи в Средиземноморье. Если вы посетили Триест на круизном лайнере, то маршрут можно пройти в обратную сторону, либо совсем немного прогуляться до вокзала.

Гуляя по отмеченным местам вы посетите дома, где он снимал квартиры, бывшие здания его работы, кафе, где встречались интеллектуалы и именной музей, который открылся не так давно, в начале двухтысячных. Кстати, вход в музей бесплатный, но заранее узнайте часы работы. А параллельно посмотрите на Триест под другим, ирландским, углом.

Памятник Джойсу на Красном мосту.

Город помнит, кто в нем жил, поэтому не стесняется упоминаний Джойса в названиях кафе, отелей, часто можно встретить его портрет. В туристическом информационном центре мне рассказали, что в своем время власти Триеста обиделись на биографов писателя за то, что они практически не упоминают связь Джойса и Триеста, поэтому казна недополучает много денег от туристов.

Кафе

В честь Джеймса Джойса также назвали небольшую аллею (переулок? проезд?) недалеко от Триестской обсерватории. Я надеюсь, прогулка вам понравится.

Полезная информация

  • Карту можно сохранить в свои карты Google и скачать, чтобы они были доступны без подключения к интернету
  • В описании каждой точки есть краткая справка о том, что это за точка
  • На карте отмечены точки, не вошедшие в маршрут, например, Бюст Джойса в Общественном саду
  • На всю прогулку уйдет не более двух часов (если не посещать музей)

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