Путешествуя по России во время Чемпионата мира по футболу, я оказалась в Ростове-на-Дону. Город очень приятный, уютный, теплый и со своим колоритом. В Ростовской области я была первый раз, и столицы мне было недостаточно. Из широкого выбора маленьких городков области я остановилась на Таганроге из-за его богатой и интересной истории, Антона Павловича Чехова и возможности искупаться в Азовском море. Оказалось, Таганрог очень разный, и скорее всего для каждого туриста он будет свой. Так какой же он?
Императорский Таганрог
Таганрог основал Петр I, сразу после завоевания турецкой крепости Азов. Но Петр I основывал его не в чистом поле, а на месте уже существующего поселения. Когда-то давным давно здесь было греческое поселение, название которого я не знаю. После греков на этом месте жили итальянцы, и город назывался Порто-Пизано. Но следов греков и итальянцев в городе практически не осталась, так как любая стройка, которую начинал император велась с имперским размахом.
В честь основателя в городе названо очень много объектов. Если вы приедете в Таганрог на электричке, то путь к главным достопримечательностям города скорее всего будет пролегать по Петровской улице, с очень красивыми домами и летними кафе. Петру I установлен памятник, в честь него названа самая высокая лестница в городе с более чем 200 ступеньками.
Но одним Петром дело не кончилось, в Таганроге угораздило скончаться Александру I, победителю непобедимого Наполеона. В доме, где он умер уже после его смерти в дань памяти обустроили дворец. Вида дом не дворцового, но зато является отличным примером провинциального классицизма. Если не обратить внимание на табличку со словом «дворец», то можно случайно пройти мимо. Именно из этого дома стартовала похоронная процессия в Петербург.
Так что если вы любите историю Российской империи времен Романовых, увлекаетесь классической, хоть и провинциальной, архитектурой и любите все имперское, то в Таганрог съездить стоит. Мне после Петербурга всех этих мест жизни и смерти всевозможных императоров хватает, но архитектура города все равно оставила очень хорошее впечатление.
Чеховский Таганрог
Если же вы больше по литературной части, как я, то отправиться в Таганрог стоит за Чеховым. Герои рассказов писателя, отлитые в бронзе, стоят на главных улицах. Почти все культурные и образовательные заведения носят его имя. В городе несколько памятников Чехову, и о самых интересных «чеховских местах» Таганрога я написала отдельную статью.
Таганрог Фаины Раневской
Фаина Раневская тоже родилась в Таганроге. До уезда в Москву великая актриса училась в гимназии и получала хорошее домашнее образование в семье. Жили они в доме по адресу улица Фрунзе, дом 10. Под единственным балконом этого дома принято стоять «на счастье». Примечательно, что Фаина не сыграла ни одной главной роли за всю свою карьеру, но её талант успевал влюбить в себя буквально за эпизод.
Например, местное кафе «Фрекен Бок» увековечивает работу Фаины Георгиевны в озвучке, даже без лица. Именно её голосом говорила и звонила через лейку для душа «домомучительница» в мультфильме «Карлсон вернулся». Такой своеобразный памятник актерскому таланту Раневской, заодно и плюшками побалуйтесь.
Крафтовый Таганрог
Помимо культурной программы в Таганроге можно выделить гастрономическую. Готовят там вкусно и недорого. Так как в городе есть береговая линия, есть очень много кафе с видом на Азовское море, где готовят еду на открытом огне и это очень вкусно. Помимо классического южного набора из шашлыка и вина в Таганроге есть свое местное пиво. Пивоварня «Таганiй Рогъ», которая именую себя крафтовой, делает недорогое пиво почти всех классических сортов. Чего-то интересного местного я не увидела, но когда на улице +38 градусов жары, любое пиво покажется райской росой.
Как видите, я нашла как минимум 4 причины посетить Таганрог. И это я даже про море не упомянула. Мне город понравился безумно. Он такой тихий, уютный, теплый. На земле лежат абрикосы, в воздухе витает особый портовый аромат, все дома выглядят нарядно, а еще в городе нескучно, и есть на что посмотреть.
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