Калининград: моё самое большое разочарование — КРАМАР БЛОГ

Калининград: моё самое большое разочарование

Калининград Южный вокзал

Признаюсь честно, что покупая билеты на матч Хорватия-Нигерия на «Калининград Арену», я больше всего хотела посмотреть сам город. При мысли о Калининграде фантазия рисовала мне тихие средневековые улочки, напоминающие Вольный город Данциг и коробку от коньяка «Старый Кёнигсберг» . В общем, про Калининград я была наслышана и ожидания были высокие. К тому же это был первый город, в который мы поехали в рамках ЧМ 2018.

Мое первое разочарование: Калининград уже никакой не Кёнигсберг. Лет 70 уже как и вряд ли когда-то станет им в плане архитектуры, потому что город угробили. Как не пытались его к ЧМ 2018 отмыть и приодеть, но не вышло. Ты никуда не денешь хрущевки на центральных улицах, долгострой в лице Дома Советов и типовые строения. Попытка сохранить что-то средневековое есть разве что на острове Канта, но этот остров настолько мал, что на его просмотр уйдет максимум час. Хотя с хрущевками попытались сделать что-то интересное, они теперь как будто средневековые. Интересно, сколько такой внешний вид продержится.

Остров Канта в Калининграде
Остров Канта в Калининграде

Я не являюсь противником прогресса и считаю, что города на месте не стоят, и не лепниной и каленым кирпичом едины красивые города. Более того, я люблю советские здания, я прям кайфую от некоторых архитектурных и градостроительных решений. Но вот Калининграду на пользу советская власть явно не пошла, в отличие от, например, той же Москвы. Собственно, если хотите что-то «кёнигсберское», то можете посетить остров Канта и сразу после этого начинать пить вышеупомянутый коньяк и поминать средневековый город.

Калининград: специальные люки к ЧМ 2018
Отлили специальные люки в честь Чемпионата мира по футболу 2018

Если вы ехали не в Кёнигсберг, а именно в Калининград, то в городе следует погулять по красивым паркам, с прудами, катамаранами и хорошими набережными. На один день вполне хватит. Еще в городе к ЧМ 2018 сделали много деталей, например, отлили канализационные люки, которые есть не только в центре, но и на окраине. Вычистили все центральные площади, постарались облагородить газоны и скверы. Мы были на первом матче в Калининграде, в самом начале чемпионата, и поэтому город еще не успели загадить. Можно сказать, что видели последние 12 часов его чистоты и благородства.

Калининград: Кафедральный Собор Христа Спасителя
Кафедральный собор Калининграда

Еще Калининград очень маленький для такого объема туристов. Чемпионат мира по футболу чуть ли не второе по значимости спортивное соревнование в мире (а может и первое). Было сразу понятно, что людей будет очень много. Например, хорватов было столько, что ломились все кафе, рестораны и площади около достопримечательностей. Каждый газон и скамейка были заняти людьми в футболках с красно-белой шахматкой.

Хорватские болельщики в Калининграде
Вот что бывает с маленьким городом на ЧМ

Но если днем город еще хоть как-то справлялся с таким количеством людей, то вот после матча, вечером, началось все самое интересное. И это было мое второе разочарование: малый бизнес не воспользовался ситуацией. 31 тысяча болельщиков вышла со стадиона, на котором из еды были только хот-доги, и процентов 90 заведений было закрыто. Ладно бы это был будний день, но это был день матча (повторюсь, в городе более 30 тысяч туристов) и к тому же это была ночь с субботы на воскресенье. Обычно в эту ночь даже в обычные дни как правило открыто все до последнего посетителя, и это не только в областных центрах. В итоге накормить всех смогли только Додо пицца и окошко Макдональдса, которое в 4 часа утра тоже закрылось.

Утро в Калининграде
Калининград на рассвете

Зато ночью город становится немного другим для восприятия. Ночью начинает чувствоваться, что где-то рядом Балтика. Воздух становится сырым и прохладным. Нарезая примерно третий круг по улицам (да, за день город можно обойти раза 3-4 полностью), все начинает играть новыми красками рассвета. И наконец-то исчезают люди, которых в день матча было слишком много, город ими захлебнулся. Наверное, на контрасте с кишащим туристами днем городом ночной мне понравился больше, но вспоминая тот факт, что в городе ночью делать вообще нечего, становится как-то грустно. От российских городов такого не ожидаешь, обычно скучной ночной жизнь грешат зажиточные европейские страны.

Бранденбургские ворота в Калининграде
Бранденбургские ворота

Рано утром мы сели на поезд назад и поехали назад в Москву, а Калининград оставил очень смешанное чувство. В итоге непонятно: он понравился мне или нет. Вроде за сутки было много движухи, но она почти вся была связана с футболом. В городе зелено, но долго гулять по паркам надоедает. Ночь же делать нечего вообще, поесть тоже тот еще квест. Мест для посещения в городе немного, почти все связано с пригородами. Второй раз исключительно в Калининград я бы не приехала, а вот в область может быть приеду.

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  182. Читателям предоставляется возможность самостоятельно интерпретировать представленную информацию.

  183. Я ценю балансировку автора в описании проблемы. Он предлагает читателю достаточно аргументов и контекста для формирования собственного мнения, не внушая определенную точку зрения.

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  186. Я благодарен автору этой статьи за его способность представить сложные концепции в доступной форме. Он использовал ясный и простой язык, что помогло мне легко усвоить материал. Большое спасибо за такое понятное изложение!

  187. Статья содержит ссылки на актуальные и авторитетные источники, что делает ее надежной и достоверной.

  188. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  189. Надеюсь, что эти комментарии добавят ещё больше позитива и поддержки к информационной статье! Это сообщение отправлено с сайта GoToTop.ee

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  196. Я хотел бы выразить свою восторженность этой статьей! Она не только информативна, но и вдохновляет меня на дальнейшее изучение темы. Автор сумел передать свою страсть и знания, что делает эту статью поистине уникальной.

  197. Автор представил широкий спектр мнений на эту проблему, что позволяет читателям самостоятельно сформировать свое собственное мнение. Полезное чтение для тех, кто интересуется данной темой.

  198. You probably have employees touring in the Asia and Pacific area (the place medical and hospital costs are cheap) why pay greater premiums to cowl travel within the USA where hospitalization costs are extremely excessive?

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  203. Я не могу не отметить стиль и ясность изложения в этой статье. Автор использовал простой и понятный язык, что помогло мне легко усвоить материал. Огромное спасибо за такой доступный подход!

  204. Автор статьи представляет информацию в четкой и нейтральной форме, основываясь на надежных источниках.

  205. Я восхищен тем, как автор умело объясняет сложные концепции. Он сумел сделать информацию доступной и интересной для широкой аудитории. Это действительно заслуживает похвалы!

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  213. Я бы хотел отметить качество исследования, проведенного автором этой статьи. Он представил обширный объем информации, подкрепленный надежными источниками. Очевидно, что автор проявил большую ответственность в подготовке этой работы.

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  218. Я ценю фактический и информативный характер этой статьи. Она предлагает читателю возможность рассмотреть различные аспекты рассматриваемой проблемы без внушения какого-либо определенного мнения.

  219. Я восхищен глубиной исследования, которое автор провел для этой статьи. Его тщательный подход к фактам и анализу доказывает, что он настоящий эксперт в своей области. Большое спасибо за такую качественную работу!

  220. Статья представляет аккуратный обзор современных исследований и различных точек зрения на данную проблему. Она предоставляет хороший стартовый пункт для тех, кто хочет изучить тему более подробно.

  221. Конечно, вот ещё несколько положительных комментариев на информационную статью: Это сообщение отправлено с сайта GoToTop.ee

  222. During the Cold War, the KGB (the Russian abbreviation for Committee for State Security, the Soviet Union’s intelligence and secret police agency) had success recruiting agents in the United States and Britain who were known to support communism or belong to communist organizations.

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  225. Автор старается оставаться нейтральным, позволяя читателям сами сформировать свое мнение на основе представленной информации.

  226. Автор старается оставаться объективным, что позволяет читателям самостоятельно оценить представленную информацию.

  227. Автор статьи предоставляет важные сведения и контекст, что помогает читателям более глубоко понять обсуждаемую тему.

  228. Я прочитал эту статью с большим удовольствием! Она написана ясно и доступно, несмотря на сложность темы. Большое спасибо автору за то, что делает сложные понятия понятными для всех.

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  231. Whats up are using WordPress for your blog platform? I’m new to the blog world but I’m trying to get started and create my own. Do you require any html coding expertise to make your own blog? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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  236. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  237. Я очень доволен, что прочитал эту статью. Она оказалась настоящим открытием для меня. Информация была представлена в увлекательной и понятной форме, и я получил много новых знаний. Спасибо автору за такое удивительное чтение!

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