Город Кушадасы получил свое название благодаря маленькому островку вблизи берега, на котором располагалась генуэзско-османская крепость. Дето в том, что на этом острове давно гнездились птицы, а по-турецки «куш» — это птицы, а «ада» — это остров. Но с тех пор, как город Кушадасы разросся, остров стали называть голубиным, то есть Гюверджинада. Вот так и получилось, что Кушадасы (то есть «птичий остров») это город на материке, а никакой не остров.
Кстати, Голубиный остров теперь тоже вовсе и не остров, так как с недавнего времени до него проложили насыпную дорогу. Благодаря этому до крепости можно добраться пешком и самостоятельно, без помощи предприимчивых турок. Даже боюсь представить, сколько стоило на нее сплавать раньше, потому что эти же турки предлагают такси до Эфеса за 20-30 долларов (700 турецких лир), хотя на маршрутке до него можно доехать максимум за 15 лир.
Крепость открыта ежедневно, с 9.00 до 23.00, вход свободный. На ночь она закрывается для работы дворников и потому что на ней выключают освещение, можно ноги переломать. На входе есть кафе, где можно сходить в туалет, так как в самом замке туалета нет. Идти от центра города или от стоянки круизных кораблей не более 10 минут спокойным шагом.
Впервые на Голубином острове укреплялись еще генуэзцы во времена освоения Эгейского, Мраморного и Черного морей. Но уже с XV века остров перешел под контроль турок-османов, тогда же была построена первая основательная крепость.
Современный замок был построен в XVI веке под начальством знаменитого османского пирата (это для генуэзцев и греков он пират, а для османов он адмирал и вельможа) Хызыр-реис Барбаросса, знаменитого на все Средиземноморье. Здесь базировался его флот, разгружали корабли и продавали товары на базаре в Кушадасах, поэтому для защиты у замка были построены очень толстые стены.
Сейчас слава богу обороняться ни от кого не надо, поэтому крепость представляет собой красивый парк с цветущими растениями, многоярусными скворечниками, скамейками и информационными стендами. Здесь я впервые увидела, как крокусы цветут в ноябре, а не весной, как у нас в Петербурге. Очень красиво.
Есть много скульптур, посвященных морю и рыбакам. Так же на стендах есть информация о местной флоре и фауне, интересных видах рыб, которые водятся поблизости.
Внутри центральной башни есть макеты исторических кораблей, скелет кита и поговаривают, что центральная квадратная башня построена еще Генуей. Но я не знаю, правда ли это.
В некоторых участках стены можно залезть в бойницы и посмотреть на Эгейское море. Где-то для антуража сохранено оборонительное оружие, но в основном, конечно, только камни.
Из-за обилия туристов, видимо, остров облюбовали собаки. Их там по-настоящему много, на такой маленький замок мы насчитали более 20 штук. Но они безобидные, не нападают и не мешают смотреть крепость. Просто занимаются своими делами.
Также здесь есть маяк и небольшое учреждение, связанное с судоходством. Туда нельзя пройти, но вокруг очень удобные дорожки.
В целом на осмотр замка хватит одного часа, поэтому если у вас, как у нас, время в Кушадасах ограничено расписанием круиза, то вы все успеете. К тому же Голубиный остров входит в программу всех обзорных экскурсий по этому маленькому курортному городку, так что мимо точно не пройдете.
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