Если вы решили пройти Путь Сантьяго, то наверняка знаете, что единственно верного и правильного пути нет. Путь Святого Иакова — это огромная развитая сеть маршрутов, которые меняются год от года в зависимости от природы, изменения схем движения в городах, прокладки новых шоссе.
В принципе, путь более или менее постоянный, но бывают изменения, поэтому каждое начало сезона монахи, первый паломники и активисты рисуют краской новые стрелки и обновляют старые. Поэтому не удивляйтесь, если где-то стрелки будут зачеркнуты. Значит скорее всего какой-то фермер перекрыл проход или закрыли пешеходных переход через автомагистраль.
По берегу или нет?
Итак, если вы решили стартовать из Порту, а не из Франции (самые популярные маршруты), то вам следует знать, что из Порту стартует два официальных пути: центральный (Caminho Português) и прибрежный (Caminho Português da Costa). Примерно в каждом городе можно свернуть с одного на другой, а потом вернуться обратно, если не понравится.
В августе не у океана было очень душно, поэтому мы выбрали Косту. Все-таки Атлантика холодная, и ветерок с нее очень сильно упрощает путь по 30км в день на солнце. Кроме того, в прибрежных городочках больше рыбных ресторанов, а я очень люблю, как португальцы готовят рыбу. Таким образом, что выбрать и как пойти решать в первую очередь вам, чуть ниже подробное описание маршрутов и их километраж.
Caminho Portugues da Costa
Произносится как «Камино Португеш да Коста» и дословно переводится как «Португальский путь по берегу». Но и у него есть несколько путей: «исторический», «строго прибрежный» и «комбинированный». Разницы между ними особо нет, разве что в двух последних надо использовать паром, так как в устье реки Миньо до сих пор нет моста.
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Исторический прибрежный путь Сантьяго (270км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Фан — Эшпозенде — Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — Вила Нова де Сервейра — Валенса ду Минью — Туи — Пориньо — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела.
Без использования парома, самый короткий из прибрежных и сливается в историческим центральным путем в городе Валенса, перед испанской частью. Еще из плюсов, заходит почти в тысячелетнюю деревню Ратеш. Для меня этот вариант был самый предпочтительный.
Прибрежный путь Сантьяго (280 км): Порту — Матозиньюш — Вила-ду-Конди — Повуа-ди-Варзин — Фан — Эшпозенде — Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — ПАРОМ —Ла-Гуардия — Ойа — Байона — A Рамаллоса — Виго — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела.
Отличается от предыдущего тем, что в Каминье продолжает идти по побережью, используя для этого паром. Расписание парома доступно в любом кафе города. Так же есть taxi mar, если вы проспите паром.
Комбинированный (290 км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Фан — Эшпозенде —Мариньяш — Каштелу-ду-Нива — Виана-ду-Каштелу — Каминья — ПАРОМ —Ла-Гуардия — Ойа — Байона — A Рамаллоса — Виго — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш де Рейс — Падрон — Сантьяго-де-Компостела

Португальский путь Сантьяго (Caminho Portugues)
Произносится как «Камино Португеш» и дословно переводится как «Португальский путь». Иногда к нему добавляют слово «Сентраль», так как он идет по центру Португалии. Считается историческим, и именно так ходили паломники тысячу лет назад. В принципе, первая переправа через реку Миньо была не в устье, а посередине, между городами Валенса-Туи. Это «историческое» преодоление границы между Португалией и испанией.
Центральный (240 км): Порту — Вайрон — Ратеш — Барселош — Понде де Лима — Рубаеш — Валенса (Туи) — Пориньо — Редондела — Понтеведра — Кальдаш — Падрон — Сантьяго-Де-Компостела.
Что выбрали мы?
Рано утром в Порту мы долго думали, куда нам идти, к побережью или вглубь Португалии. Решили поехать на метро до конечной станции Вила-ду-Конди (Vila do Conde) и там определиться. В итоге получилось, что в первый день мы заглянули и в Ратеш, и почти дошли до Эшпошенде. Что примерно равнялось двухдневной норме. Более подробно про именно наш Путь Святого Иакова можно прочитать тут.
А какой вам приглянулся и какой больше хочется пройти?
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