Я решила посвятить городочку Виана-ду-Каштелу отдельный пост, чтобы не перегружать отчет о том, как мы шли в третий день по Пути Сантьяго. Многие пишут про этот город, что он предельно унылый, как и все остальные, но по моему скромному мнению, Виана-ду-Каштелу был чуть ли не самым интересным городом на Португальском пути, не считая начального пункта (Порту) и конечного (Сантьяго-де-Компостела).
Итак, чем же он запал мне в душу и почему я считаю этот город чуть ли не лучшим на Португальском прибрежном пути? А вот чем.
Река Лима
Город стоит на реке Лима, большой и настоящей реке, которая, судя по обилию рыбаков достаточно живая. Здесь река впадает в Атлантический океан, образуя красивую долину, на которую можно посмотреть с горы Санта-Лузия, о которой чуть позже.
Вообще, когда день выдался жарким, любая близость проточной воды всегда плюс, ведь как правило с реки дует прохладный ветерок и свежий воздух. Но на океане есть ветра посильнее, поэтому прохладительный эффект от реки немного меркнет, но зато очень красиво.
Мост Густава Эйфеля
Через реку Лима прокинут двухуровневый мост Густава Эйфеля длиной в 560 метров. На верхнем уровне автомобильная дорога, а на нижнем железная. Стоит ли говорить, что смотреть на реку Лима лучше с верхнего яруса, на котором есть удобные тротуары? Кстати, этот мост старше более знаменитого творения Эйфеля — Эйфелевой башни — на 10 с небольшим лет.
А вот и подтверждающая табличка, которая говорит, что автор и конструктор Густав Эйфель.
Зеленые улочки
Наверное главной отличительной чертой Виана-ду-Каштелу стало наличие разнообразной инфраструктуры и зелени. Другие города тоже пустынными не были, но там зелень в основном выражалась кукурузными полями и лесами между ними, а тут большие деревья были прям в городе.
Также во Виана-ду-Каштелу очень развитая инфраструктура. В этом городе мы наконец-то нашли банкоматы, и сняли наличку, так как поняли, что в Португалии не любят принимать карты из-за грабительских тарифов на эквайринг.
С обедом и ужином проблем тоже не возникнет. Есть и продуктовые магазины, где можно купить все необходимые для перекуса продукты, пластырь для мозолей и прочие мелочи, которые скрашивают быт, тут много кафе и ресторанов, которые открыты и подают хорошую горячую еду.
Еще нам очень повезло и мы наткнулись на какой-то местный фестиваль местной выпечки, участники которого продавали за символический 1 € добротные кусочки пирогов с разными начинками. Ими мы быстро наелись, да так, что решили не обедать, в присесть в кафе неподалеку и выпить сангрию на белом вине.
А вот архитектурного разнообразия все-таки нет. Все жилые дома похожи друг на друга, все церкви похожи друг на друга,все улицы на одно лицо. В общем сельская Португалия в плане архитектуры однообразна, но я не думаю, что это плохо, наши же деревни в одно регионе тоже однообразны. Да, тверские дома и кубанские отличаются друг от друга, но вот одни тверские от других тверских уже не так сильно.
Площадь Республики, она же центральная
Центральная площадь города — Площадь Республики, на которой есть много интересно. Все пилигримы пишут про фонтан, вот прям всем фонтанам фонтан. Если честно, фонтан как фонтан, когда мы там были, он даже не работал.
Помимо фонтана на площади есть Дом Милосердия, в котором проходят выставки. В августе 2018 года была выставка моего любимого азулежу. Но на выставку мы не пошли, так как к тому моменту еще не скинули рюкзаки, а не тащиться же с ними в храм хрупкой керамической плитки.
Вообще на площади много всего, и людей много. Но самая вкусная булочная-кондитерская все-таки не на центральной площади, а чуть в отдалении.
Легендарная выпечка
Когда мы просто прогуливались по городу, то удивились, что в одну булочку очередь начинается от соседнего квартала. Да, люди стояли в очереди за пирожными, и продвигалась эта очередь медленно. Я сначала внимание не обратила, а потом поняла, что стоят в основном не пилигримы, а обычные люди после работы. А уж они то точно знают, где и что покупать.
Я загорелась тоже попробовать, но вечером было сильно лень, так что пошли туда на утро. И да, народная тропа не подвела. Это были самые вкусные булки и паштел-де-наты за все время, чтобы странствовали по Португалии. Булочная называется Natário (я сначала думала, что это от слова Nata — «сливки», а это фамилия основателя, вот такое совпадение).
Итак, булочная Manuel Natário (R. Manuel Espregueira 37, 4900-318 Viana do Castelo, Португалия), я рьяно рекомендую.
Фуникулер Санта-Лузия
Гуляя по городу быстро понимаешь, что не все дороги ведут к Церкви Санта-Лузия, а место-то примечательное, попасть туда стоит. Мы не сразу нашли фуникулер, который они называют лифт (Elevador), а еще он рано закрывается.
Пилигримам точно стоит брать билет туда-обратно, потому что еще находитесь, да и дорога с горы неживописная. Билеты тоже не стоят чугуна.
Зато за эти 3 € вы получаете вид, который почти 100 лет назад журнал National Geographic посчитал третьим по красивости видом в мире. Тут вам и окена, и река Лима, и мост Эйфеля, и крыши города, и макушки деревьев. Вид правда того стоит.
Церковь Санта-Лузия
Сама по себе церковь тоже очень красивая, и якобы самый лучший вид все-таки с ее купола. Я в это охотно верю и проверять не стала, не люблю стоять в очередях на смотровые площадки.
Закаты и мельница
До заката с холма Санта-Лузия лучше все-таки спуститься. Во-первых может закрыться фуникулер, а во-вторых, ничего не будет видно. После спуска мы пошли на океан. Главное достоинство любого города на океане это океан. Океан, он величественен и прекрасен. Океан, он совсем не как море. Закат на океане — самый красивый закат.
Вот такой приятный городок Виана-ду-Каштелу, который оставил после себя очень классное впечатление. Наверное, это действительно самый живой город на отрезке пути Сантьяго от Порту до границы с Испанией (на самом деле и в Испании там города очень маленькие).
В какой раз убеждаюсь, что путь Святого Иакова является уникальным способом посмотреть на провинциальную Европу в общем и Португалию в частности, и посетить те города, куда специально не поедешь, в которые ты приходишь пешком и из-за этого смотришь на них совсем по-другому.
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The joint research began in 1988 with the set up of a $10 million IBM 3090 mainframe computer on campus.
Murry Bergtraum Highschool, along with different excessive faculties of the Lower Manhattan space were the first colleges evacuated in the course of the September eleven attacks on the World Commerce Middle in 2001.
The invoice was first introduced in 2003 and has been reintroduced in every Congress since.
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Through the early 1980s, Geithner’s father oversaw the Ford Foundation’s microfinance packages in Indonesia being developed by Ann Dunham Soetoro, Barack Obama’s mom, and so they met at the very least once in Jakarta.
Bloomberg Information. Retrieved 10 January 2015.
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The Afghanistan-Pakistan Transit Commerce Agreement (APTTA) allows Afghan and Pakistani cargo trucks to transit goods within each nations.
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Ownership and Control: Cryptocurrency users have greater control over their own financial assets.
When it comes to relaying transactions, every network pc (node) has a duplicate of the blockchain of the cryptocurrency it supports.
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Luxembourg and Eire are the primary jurisdictions for the registration of UCITS funds.
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For example, to what extent did changes in housing prices affect the net worth of the population overall in the past?
Pay attention to cycles: It is important to pay attention to all the cycles prevalent in the stock market.
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This web page was final edited on 3 August 2024, at 23:24 (UTC).
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