Ростов-на-Дону: столица вкусной ухи и палящего солнца

Ростов-на-Дону: столица вкусной ухи и палящего солнца

Хорватские болельщики в Ростове-на-Дону

Как приятно бывает поддаться спонтанному порыву куда-нибудь съездить. Еще приятнее об этом порыве не пожалеть. В Ростов-на-Дону я не собиралась, но счастливое стечение обстоятельств и знакомств подарило мне бесплатный билет на матч Исландия-Хорватия на «Ростов Арене». Находясь в Казани быстро спланировала маршрут Казань — Ростов-на-Дону — Самара и отправилась в путь. Так началось мое ростовское приключение!

День первый: футбольный

В обед, в 36 градусную жару я вышла на станции Ростов Главный в день матча вместе с почти всем поездом. Несмотря на то, что поезд направлялся в Анапу, черноморское побережье интересовало пассажиров меньше, чем проходящий Чемпионат мира по футболу. В Ростове не очень удобный общественный транспорт, и до хостела я добралась на бесплатном шаттле, так что мне даже повезло. Поток исландцев и хорватов сам вынес меня к главным футбольным локациям города. Я потоку с радостью поддалась.

Исландский болельщик на FIFA Fan Fest
Болельщик Исландии на фанзоне в Ростове-на-Дону

В день матча я мало что успела посетить, побывала на набережной Дона, Большой Садовой и Пушкинской улицах, зашла на FIFA Fan Fest, посмотрела там самый скучный матч, который я только видела: Франция и Дания устроили какую-то возню. Почему-то в Фанзоне Ростова-на-Дону не было фирменных стаканчиков ни от Bud, ни от Клинского, это меня немного расстроило, так как я уже нацелилась на коллекцию. Фанзона вообще расстроила, так как сделали её на солнцепеке, на асфальте, без мест в тени и без возможности присесть. Вряд ли они думали, что в Ростове-на-Дону месяц не будет жарко, так что не подумали совершенно о зрителях. В результате все зрители стояли по струночке в тени, которую отбрасывали столбы и аппаратура.

"Ростов-Арена" на закате
«Ростов-Арена» на закате

Затем я отправилась на «Ростов Арену», которая находится на противоположном берегу Дона. Каким-то образом шаттлы умудрились постоять в пробке, и вообще трансфер был просто ужасно организован: кому-то в автобусе стало плохо, ехали они медленно и не по выделенной полосе. Зато мне очень понравился сам стадион. В отличие от стадиона Казани, ростовский выглядит современнее и ухоженнее. Но от жары в 40 градусов не спасает ничего, даже холодное пиво в фирменных стаканах, которое хотя бы на стадионе есть. Матч прошел интересно и бодро, но я не футбольный комментатор, чтобы как-то оценивать сам футбол, мне достаточно того, что 3 часа мне было нескучно и атмосфера праздника царила повсеместно. Собственно, так закончился мой первый день в Ростове-на-Дону.

Внутри "Ростов-Арены"
«Ростов Арена» изнутри
День второй: пригородный

Второй день я решила посвятить Таганрогу, так как давно хотела в нем побывать. Заодно, раз уж случайно приехала в Ростовскую область, поплавать в Азовском море, чтобы «похвастаться». Таганрог превзошел мои ожидания, которые и без того были большие, поэтому я посвятила ему аж 3 поста! Это очень много на город в 255 тысяч жителей. Небольшой лайфхак для тех, кто поедет в Таганрог на электричке: когда поедете туда, садитесь к левым окнам по ходу движения, а когда назад — правым. Так вы увидите прекрасные пейзажи Азовского моря и Ростовского порта.

День третий: рыбный и прогулочный

После Таганрога я решила устроить себе гастрономическую программу и питалась только ухой и местной рыбой, которой тут вагон и маленькая тележка. От одной тарелки ухи до другой в городе приятно гулять. В Ростове удобно и здорово просто прогуливаться по улицам. Почти на всех улицах растут деревья, и в их тени не жарко, много уличных кафе, где есть что-то холодное попить. А уютные и милые двухэтажные домики на спусках к Дону, где на асфальте валяются абрикосы — это просто сказка. Есть какой-то провинциальный шик в таких улицах, на них чувствуешь себя в безопасности, как дома.

Ростов-на-Дону не на главной улице
Улочки Ростова-на-Дону

Вообще, мне Ростов-на-Дону очень понравился. Здесь минут за 10 пропитываешься солнцем и потом источаешь этот свет. Все люди приветливые, все светится, фрукты вкусные, уха наваристая, пейзажи красивые, дома не гнилые, деревья зеленые и высокие. Смотришь на это всё, и наполняешься счастьем, радостью, желанием вершить большие дела. В России любят придумывать неофициальные названия городов: Ростов-на-Дону, например, называют Воротами Кавказа. Я же для себя решила, что это ворота в счастье, потому что тут достаточно сойти с перрона, чтобы его ощутить. Улетать не хотелось, но я уже пообещала.

 

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