Калининград на ЧМ 2018: город, в котором нечего делать

Калининград: моё самое большое разочарование

Калининград Южный вокзал

Признаюсь честно, что покупая билеты на матч Хорватия-Нигерия на «Калининград Арену», я больше всего хотела посмотреть сам город. При мысли о Калининграде фантазия рисовала мне тихие средневековые улочки, напоминающие Вольный город Данциг и коробку от коньяка «Старый Кёнигсберг» . В общем, про Калининград я была наслышана и ожидания были высокие. К тому же это был первый город, в который мы поехали в рамках ЧМ 2018.

Мое первое разочарование: Калининград уже никакой не Кёнигсберг. Лет 70 уже как и вряд ли когда-то станет им в плане архитектуры, потому что город угробили. Как не пытались его к ЧМ 2018 отмыть и приодеть, но не вышло. Ты никуда не денешь хрущевки на центральных улицах, долгострой в лице Дома Советов и типовые строения. Попытка сохранить что-то средневековое есть разве что на острове Канта, но этот остров настолько мал, что на его просмотр уйдет максимум час. Хотя с хрущевками попытались сделать что-то интересное, они теперь как будто средневековые. Интересно, сколько такой внешний вид продержится.

Остров Канта в Калининграде
Остров Канта в Калининграде

Я не являюсь противником прогресса и считаю, что города на месте не стоят, и не лепниной и каленым кирпичом едины красивые города. Более того, я люблю советские здания, я прям кайфую от некоторых архитектурных и градостроительных решений. Но вот Калининграду на пользу советская власть явно не пошла, в отличие от, например, той же Москвы. Собственно, если хотите что-то «кёнигсберское», то можете посетить остров Канта и сразу после этого начинать пить вышеупомянутый коньяк и поминать средневековый город.

Калининград: специальные люки к ЧМ 2018
Отлили специальные люки в честь Чемпионата мира по футболу 2018

Если вы ехали не в Кёнигсберг, а именно в Калининград, то в городе следует погулять по красивым паркам, с прудами, катамаранами и хорошими набережными. На один день вполне хватит. Еще в городе к ЧМ 2018 сделали много деталей, например, отлили канализационные люки, которые есть не только в центре, но и на окраине. Вычистили все центральные площади, постарались облагородить газоны и скверы. Мы были на первом матче в Калининграде, в самом начале чемпионата, и поэтому город еще не успели загадить. Можно сказать, что видели последние 12 часов его чистоты и благородства.

Калининград: Кафедральный Собор Христа Спасителя
Кафедральный собор Калининграда

Еще Калининград очень маленький для такого объема туристов. Чемпионат мира по футболу чуть ли не второе по значимости спортивное соревнование в мире (а может и первое). Было сразу понятно, что людей будет очень много. Например, хорватов было столько, что ломились все кафе, рестораны и площади около достопримечательностей. Каждый газон и скамейка были заняти людьми в футболках с красно-белой шахматкой.

Хорватские болельщики в Калининграде
Вот что бывает с маленьким городом на ЧМ

Но если днем город еще хоть как-то справлялся с таким количеством людей, то вот после матча, вечером, началось все самое интересное. И это было мое второе разочарование: малый бизнес не воспользовался ситуацией. 31 тысяча болельщиков вышла со стадиона, на котором из еды были только хот-доги, и процентов 90 заведений было закрыто. Ладно бы это был будний день, но это был день матча (повторюсь, в городе более 30 тысяч туристов) и к тому же это была ночь с субботы на воскресенье. Обычно в эту ночь даже в обычные дни как правило открыто все до последнего посетителя, и это не только в областных центрах. В итоге накормить всех смогли только Додо пицца и окошко Макдональдса, которое в 4 часа утра тоже закрылось.

Утро в Калининграде
Калининград на рассвете

Зато ночью город становится немного другим для восприятия. Ночью начинает чувствоваться, что где-то рядом Балтика. Воздух становится сырым и прохладным. Нарезая примерно третий круг по улицам (да, за день город можно обойти раза 3-4 полностью), все начинает играть новыми красками рассвета. И наконец-то исчезают люди, которых в день матча было слишком много, город ими захлебнулся. Наверное, на контрасте с кишащим туристами днем городом ночной мне понравился больше, но вспоминая тот факт, что в городе ночью делать вообще нечего, становится как-то грустно. От российских городов такого не ожидаешь, обычно скучной ночной жизнь грешат зажиточные европейские страны.

Бранденбургские ворота в Калининграде
Бранденбургские ворота

Рано утром мы сели на поезд назад и поехали назад в Москву, а Калининград оставил очень смешанное чувство. В итоге непонятно: он понравился мне или нет. Вроде за сутки было много движухи, но она почти вся была связана с футболом. В городе зелено, но долго гулять по паркам надоедает. Ночь же делать нечего вообще, поесть тоже тот еще квест. Мест для посещения в городе немного, почти все связано с пригородами. Второй раз исключительно в Калининград я бы не приехала, а вот в область может быть приеду.

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