Хёугесунн (Haugesund) — столица одноименной коммуны в губернии Ругаланн. Город, о котором я слышать не слышала, пока не решилась на поход под парусом с командой Sofa Sailors. Город по российским меркам более чем скромный, но несмотря на свой размер, Хёугесунн сыграл важную роль в истории страны: тут случилось объединение Норвегии в единое государство — «Землю Викингов«.
Аэропорт почти на пляже
В аэропорт Кармёй (Karmøy, код HAU) приземляются рейсы авиакомпаний SAS, Norwegian и Widerøe круглый год и Ryanair летом. Перелет из Осло в Хёугесунн длится меньше часа, поэтому я выбрала самолет. Если позволяет время и бюджет, тоже выбирайте лететь, потому что когда будете садиться, обалдеете от видов на море. Я вот с переменным успехом думала «как красиво!» и «да мы садимся прямо на воду!».
Есть ли на что посмотреть?
В городе все живут морем. По словам местных жителей, в каждом доме есть хотя бы одна моторная лодка. Центр Хёугесунна находится рядом с мариной, а на первой линии сосредоточены все самые дорогие местные рестораны.
Внезапно, набережную марины Хёугесунна украшает памятник Мэрилин Монро, наверное, самый неожиданный памятник в этом месте. Помимо Мэрилин Монро мне сложно ожидать в таких захолустьях почту, университет, кафе, цветочную лавку, ювелирный, хозяйственный и книжный магазины. Я никогда не понимала, как они там выживают и кто в них что-то покупает. Тем не менее, при остром желании можно даже пошопиться.
Мне понравилось, что в Хёугесунне очень много мелких деталей, подчеркивающих идентичность города и его историю. Так как это земля викингов, то у любого треснутого камня есть легенда. На деревьях и валунах рисуют глазки, а дома украшаются рогами, топорами и прочими атрибутами скандинавского быта. Рыболовные сети иногда используют в качестве занавесок.
Хёугесунн в марте позволяет окунуться в атмосферу Норвежской весны. В нем можно долго и спокойно гулять по маленьким улочкам, общаться с местными жителями и дышать свежим морским воздухом, любоваться пробивающимися из земли первоцветами и слушать крики чаек, налетающих на свежепойманную рыбу.
Рекомендую взять горячий кофе со свежей булочкой и посидеть на улице, полюбоваться жизнью марины и города. Мне очень понравился Хёугесунн, и несмотря на то, что он маленький, в нем можно себя занять, в нем есть что посмотреть и есть куда сходить. Но если бы не начало похода именно отсюда, вряд ли бы я сюда приехала специально. Но на день-два сойдет.
Почитать еще про другие города, в которых мы останавливались можно по ссылкам: Хёугесунн → Эспевер → Лейрвик → Росендал → Хюснес → Лангевог → Хёугесунн.
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