На яхте в Норвегии. День 1: Хёугесунн — Эспевер — КРАМАР БЛОГ
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На яхте в Норвегии. День 1: Хёугесунн — Эспевер

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К северу от Хёугесунна в комунне Бёмлу (Bømlo) в фюльке Хордаланн (Hordaland) есть милый остров Эспевер (Espevær), местные жители которого очень приветливы, ездят в гости на моторках или по канатной переправе, покупают свежайшие креветки и утверждают, что загадочный круг на траве в сердце острова оставили инопланетяне. Эспевер можно смело назвать жемчужиной Бёмлу, так как он самобытен и полон достопримечательностей, которые иллюстрируют норвежский быт, любовь к дому и природе.

Как и любой остров, Эспевер является маленьким миром, окруженным со всех сторон холодной водой и обдуваемым суровыми морскими ветрами. Местоположение острова позволяет рыболовам достаточно просто выходить в отдаленные и глубокие воды, а для ветра нет никаких преград на пути. Местные жители друг друга знают, поэтому с вами непременно пообщаются и все расскажут и покажут, так как туристов они примечают издалека и невооруженным глазом. Центром города можно назвать марину, с магазином и почтовым отделением прямо в нем. Магазин работает по договоренности с местными жителями, и иногда, чтобы до него добраться, нужно воспользоваться канатной переправой. Но коренные жители, конечно же, используют лодки.

Остров Эспевер. Норвегия.
Жители Эспевера вместо машин используют лодки.

Жители и лодки

Если вам удастся договориться с кем-нибудь из местных, то попросите вас покатать, так как с воды Эспевер воспринимается совершенно иначе, к тому же вы сможете увидеть маленькие острова, населенные только горными козочками и чайками. Если вам попадется очень приветливый эспеверец (честно, я не знаю, как жителей Эспевера правильно назвать), то он так же может пригласить вас к себе домой в гости или позвать съездить с ним в море и посмотреть, как он ставит или проверяет рыболовные сети. Так как новые лица на острове появляются достаточно редко, они с радостью общаются с туристами. Из-за спокойствия и тишины, которые царят на острове, поначалу кажется, что люди тут вообще не живут, но это не так, жизнь тут кипит, но по-своему.

Остров Эспевер. Норвегия.
Навигация по острову.

Навигация по острову

На острове есть все самое необходимое: банк, почта, школа, магазин и даже летнее кафе. В почтовом отделении можно купить фирменные открытки с видами острова и небольшую сувенирную карту. Также есть галерея и иногда проходит что-то вроде фестиваля. Главных достопримечательностей на острове Эспевер две: круг на поле, оставленный «инопланетянами» (UFO ringen или Espeværsringen) и кабельная переправа (Kabelferge). Кабельная (или канатная?) переправа работает днем, так как ей пользуются школьники и рабочие, живущие на противоположной стороне марины. Если хорошо попросить, для вас ее тоже могут открыть. Для удобства туристов все тропинки Эспевера оборудованы указателями и табличками, так как заблудиться в лесу не местному жителю очень просто.

Остров Эспевер. Норвегия.
Инопланетяне — отдельно, туристы — отдельно.

Продажа свежего улова прямо с судна

Утром на площадь у магазина приходят местные жители, общаются между собой и ждут рыбацкое судно со свежим уловом. Так как улов — вещь непредсказуемая, могут привезти какую-то редкую рыбу и моллюсков, названия которых я не знаю. Могут же вообще ничего не привезти. Рекомендую попробовать свежевыловленные креветки, которые в Норвегии едят как семечки. Их даже не варят, есть можно прямо после покупки, и это очень вкусно. Они очень соленые и сильно отличаются по вкусу от креветок из теплых морей, и уж тем более от покупных в России. Так как я их очень люблю, я не смогла удержаться от покупки и была очень довольна. Стоимость килограмма примерно 200 норвежских крон, но можно торговаться.

Остров Эспевер. Норвегия. Свежевыловленные креветки.
Свежевыловленные северные креветки.

Примерно так можно провести время, если вас занесло на этот остров. Эспевер точно не оставит вас равнодушным. Как и любой маленький городок Норвегии, вряд ли тут можно остановиться больше чем на два дня, но эта пара дней вам точно понравится. Общение с местными жителями, канатная переправа, лодки, свежая рыба и креветки, всё это помогает окунуться в быт обычных людей, проникнуться Норвегией. Если понравится, можно выпить с кем-нибудь аквавита прямо у магазина. Следы НЛО и канатная переправа далеко не единственные достопримечательности Эспевера, но лично мне запомнились эти. Фирменная открытка друзьям может быть интересным приветом, так как мало кто знает, что это место в Норвегии вообще существует.

Почитать еще про другие города, в которых мы останавливались можно по ссылкам: 

Хёугесунн → Эспевер → Лейрвик → Росендал → Хюснес → Лангевог → Хёугесунн.

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