- Маршрут: Фан — Эшпозенди — Мариньяш — Белинью — Каштелу-ду-Нейва
- Пройденный путь: 16 км
- Осталось до Сантьяго-де-Компостелы: 185 км
- ← предыдущий день, следующий день →
Проснувшись в 7 утра и жутко замерзнув ночью, мы пошли есть завтрак, который входил в стоимость хостела. Завтрак мне не понравился, но прихватив с собой по йогурту, мы снова вышли на тропу. Солнце уже давно встало и по нему было понятно, что день будет очень жаркий, собственно, из-за этой жары мы очень рано закончили и прошли всего 16 км.
Наш хостел находился недалеко от пожарной части, где есть постоянная экспозиция, посвященная этому непростому делу, в ней также много красивых пожарных машин, в том числе и старенькая с песком. На улице на стене пожарной части висит много фотографий и информации о том, как это все работает. Мне было интересно, но долго задерживаться не стали.
Почти сразу за пожарной частью мы завернули на мост через реку Каваду, чтобы перебраться на другой берег в город Эшпозенди, где хотели вчера закончить путь. Утром в реке было много рыбацких лодочек, но практически не было рыбаков, видимо они снасти так расставляют, а может швартуются далеко от берега, чтобы не сесть на мель.
Вообще переход Фан—Эшпозенди очень живописный, он идет вдоль устья Каваду вплоть до впадения ее в океан.
Отмель в устье реки Каваду: когда в океане прилив, оно наполняется водой, но сейчас вода отступила. Над отмелью кружит много птиц, которые охотятся на рачков и рыбок, которые не успели удрать вместе с отливом.
На другом берегу нас ожидает город Эшпозенди. Город по местным меркам крупный и интересный, что-то вроде наших райцентров.
Эшпозенди знаменит своим протяженным и чистейшим пляжем, где Каваду впадает в Атлантический океан, вдоль которого и идет Португальский Путь Сантьяго по обустроенным деревянным дорожкам, так что песка много в ботинки не наберете.
На пляже, разумеется, тоже отлив, поэтому видно много тины и водорослей, а также почти отсутствуют волны в океане. Но все равно очень красиво и свежо.
Здесь же, на входе в город расположился старый форт Сан-Жуан-Баптиста-де-Эшпозенде, весьма скромного размера. Сейчас в нем прячется невысокий красный маяк.
Когда мы зашли в город, то удивились его красочности. Повсюду весели флажки, ходили люди в исторических костюмах, явно к чему-то готовились торговцы. В общем было стойкое ощущение, что вот вот начнется какой-то местечковый праздник.
Я не очень люблю путешествия с жестким планом и маршрутом, потому что в них практически отсутствует возможность внезапно попасть на местный праздник, потому что о половине таких мероприятий знают только жители маленьких городков. Поэтому когда мне случайно удается что-то такое увидеть, я очень радуюсь, как будто выиграла в туристическую лотерею.
Так как фестиваль еще не начался, то оставаться в городе смысла не было, и мы потихоньку начали выходить из него в Мариньяш.
Мариньяш по сравнению с Эшпозенди очень маленький, его можно просто пройти. Но в нем также есть и альберги, и даже какое-то кафе.
По пути вам откроется сельская жизнь португальцев, так как заборчики там низкие, то видно все, что они сажают. В Ленинградской области и не снился такой урожай дынь.
Самой же популярной местной культурой является кукуруза, так же как и в испанской Галисии. В Португалии к началу сентября ее уже убирают, у нас же под Петербургом в это время даст бог початок станет больше среднего размера, про зрелость и говорить нечего.
Потом мы пришли в Белинью, солнце жарило очень сильно, а мы уже хотели есть. Отличным решением было бы зайти в кафе, поесть и заодно на час скрыться от солнца, но с кафе в Белинью незадача.
То, что показывается как ресторан на самом деле пивная для местного сомнительного контингента, где из еды только соленый арахис. В другом же, расположенном прямо на трассе так сильно пахло горелым жиром и было жарче чем на улице. В общем не поели мы в Белинью.
Зато в Белинью снова видно океан, хоть он и очень далеко. Мы уже знаем, что дальше маршрут поведет нас через лес вдоль русла реки Нейва, и океан будет не видно, поэтому наслаждаемся видами.
Горы только кажутся безобидными, но подниматься в них на жаре и солнцепеке с рюкзаком достаточно тяжело.
Собственно, сразу за Белинью мы начали удаляться от океана в лес, чтобы пройти по маленькому каменному мосту через реку Нейва. Вообще через эту реку есть шикарный и современный мост, но нам не к нему.
В лесу, кстати, становится сильно легче идти, потому что есть тень от деревьев и солнце не так припекает макушку. Но все равно душновато, ветра практически не было, так как русло по обоим берегам защищено горами.
Когда мы спустились ниже к руслу реки, от нее повеяло приятной прохладой. Речка течет в низине, ветра там почти нет, поэтому создался комфортный для ходьбы микроклимат.
Потом, когда мы дошли до каменного мостика, мы решили помочить ноги в холодной воде и перекусить тем, что у нас было с собой, так как стало совсем невыносимо идти дальше не перекусив. У нас был португальский сыр, булка, батончик пикник, йогурты, оставшиеся с завтрака и немного воды. Мы посидели около моста примерно пол часа и с радостью все это умяли.
Затем мы начали подниматься в гору и тут мне стало очень плохо. То ли из-за того, что я стала подниматься прямо после еды, то ли из-за того, что я вышла из холодного воздуха низины в раскаленный на солнце воздух, но у меня помутнело в глазах. Мы планировали дойти до Вьена-ду-Каштелу, но я поняла, что мне это будет не под силу. В итоге свернули к ближайшему альберге, где оказались первыми, поэтому заняли себе хорошие места.
Второй день закончился для нас быстро, но я не люблю преодолевать дискомфорт «для галочки», мне все-таки кажется, что отпуск не должен приносить страданий. Поэтому мы расположились, приняли ледяной душ и пошли в ближайший супермаркет за вином из региона Вино Верде, а вечером сходили на океан и открыли для себя шикарный рыбный ресторан (геометка внизу). Вот так всего в 14.00 закончился наш второй день пути Сантьяго.
Организационная информация
Альберге в городе Каштелу-ду-Нейва
Albergue Castelo do Neiva (Av. de Moldes 565, Португалия)
В Альберге (стоит 6 евро) есть хороший wi-fi, самый лучший душ из всех, что нам встречали на всем пути вплоть до Падрона, шикарная и хорошо оборудованная кухня. Еще как бонус очень смешная, активная и позитивная домовладелица. Все 20 человек любого пола живут в одной комнате на двуспальных кроватях, и ночью там очень душно, особенно если какая-то немка под вентилятором замерзает и выключает его.
Где поужинать в Каштелу-ду-Нейва
Restaurante Segredos Do Mar (J5GM+P4 Pedra Alta, Viana do Castelo)
По пути к пляжу Neiva Castle находится этот шикарный ресторан. Очень вкусная рыба, шикарные морепродукты и большие порции. В ресторан вечером лучше приходить не в шортах, все-таки дресс-код ужина там соблюдается. Карты в лучших португальских традициях не принимают.
It’s awesome in favor of me to have a site, which is beneficial in support of my experience.
thanks admin
It’s really a great and helpful piece of information. I am glad that you just shared this useful information with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thanks for sharing.|
After looking at a number of the blog articles on your web page, I honestly like your way of writing a blog. I bookmarked it to my bookmark site list and will be checking back in the near future. Please visit my website as well and let me know your opinion.
I have read so many posts about the blogger lovers but this post is in fact a fastidious post, keep it up.|
Truly all kinds of great knowledge!
I’m really enjoying the design and layout of your blog. It’s a very easy on the eyes which makes it much more enjoyable for me to come here and visit more often. Did you hire out a designer to create your theme? Excellent work!|
Its not my first time to pay a visit this site, i am browsing this web page dailly and get fastidious information from here every day.|
hi!,I like your writing so much! share we communicate more about your post on AOL? I need an expert on this area to solve my problem. Maybe that’s you! Looking forward to see you.
Thank you for the good writeup. It in truth was once a amusement account it.
Glance complicated to more delivered agreeable from you!
By the way, how can we keep up a correspondence?
Pretty nice post. I simply stumbled upon your blog and wished to say that
I’ve truly loved surfing around your weblog posts.
After all I’ll be subscribing to your feed and I hope you write once more very soon!
Good post. I learn something totally new and challenging on blogs I stumbleupon every day. It will always be exciting to read through articles from other writers and practice something from other web sites. |
I think that everything published was very reasonable. But, think about this, what if you wrote a catchier post title? I ain’t suggesting your information isn’t good., but what if you added a post title to possibly grab a person’s attention? I mean BLOG_TITLE is a little vanilla. You ought to look at Yahoo’s home page and see how they create article headlines to get viewers to click. You might add a related video or a picture or two to get readers excited about what you’ve got to say. Just my opinion, it might make your posts a little bit more interesting.|
Does your website have a contact page? I’m having problems locating it but, I’d like to send you an email. I’ve got some suggestions for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great site and I look forward to seeing it grow over time.|
Awesome content, Many thanks!
Regards! I enjoy it.
Howdy, i read your blog occasionally and i own a similar one and i was just curious if you get a lot of spam remarks? If so how do you stop it, any plugin or anything you can suggest? I get so much lately it’s driving me mad so any support is very much appreciated.|
Valuable information. Lucky me I discovered your web site accidentally, and I’m surprised why this twist of fate didn’t happened in advance! I bookmarked it.|
You suggested that adequately!
hello!,I really like your writing very so much! percentage we keep in touch extra about your post on AOL? I require an expert on this area to resolve my problem. Maybe that’s you! Looking ahead to look you. |
My coder is trying to convince me to move to .net from PHP.
I have always disliked the idea because of the costs.
But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using WordPress
on numerous websites for about a year and am concerned about switching to another platform.
I have heard great things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can transfer all
my wordpress posts into it? Any kind of help would be really appreciated!
If you want to take a good deal from this paragraph then you have to apply these techniques to your won blog.|
Excellent site you have got here.. It’s difficult to find quality writing like yours nowadays. I seriously appreciate individuals like you! Take care!!|
Wow that was strange. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t show up.
Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again.
Regardless, just wanted to say great blog!
Great article.
Way cool! Some extremely valid points! I appreciate you writing this write-up and the rest of the site is really good.
alahnalyrealleak, leaked, leakshttps://www.start.gg/user/a6fe98ea
Howdy would you mind letting me know which webhost you’re working with?
I’ve loaded your blog in 3 different internet browsers and I must say
this blog loads a lot quicker then most. Can you recommend a good hosting provider at a honest price?
Cheers, I appreciate it!
Excellent post but I was wanting to know if you could write a litte more on this topic? I’d be very thankful if you could elaborate a little bit further. Thank you!|
Woah! I’m really enjoying the template/theme of this website. It’s simple, yet effective. A lot of times it’s challenging to get that «perfect balance» between superb usability and visual appeal. I must say you have done a excellent job with this. Additionally, the blog loads very quick for me on Safari. Excellent Blog!|
I’m really enjoying the design and layout of your site. It’s a
very easy on the eyes which makes it much more
enjoyable for me to come here and visit more often. Did you hire out a designer to create your theme?
Exceptional work!
Wow! In the end I got a webpage from where I can actually obtain helpful data concerning my study and knowledge.|
Hello, you used to write magnificent, but the last several posts have been kinda boring? I miss your super writings. Past few posts are just a bit out of track! come on!
May I simply just say what a relief to find a person that genuinely knows what they’re discussing on the net. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people ought to look at this and understand this side of the story. I can’t believe you are not more popular since you certainly possess the gift.|
There is certainly a great deal to learn about this subject. I really like all the points you made.
Thanks for one’s marvelous posting! I definitely enjoyed reading it, you may be a great author. I will make certain to bookmark your blog and will eventually come back in the foreseeable future. I want to encourage you to ultimately continue your great writing, have a nice morning!|
Aw, this was an exceptionally good post. Finding the time and actual effort to produce a superb article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a whole lot and don’t seem to get anything done.
Pretty component to content. I just stumbled upon your web site and in accession capital to assert that I get actually enjoyed account your blog posts. Any way I will be subscribing on your augment and even I achievement you access persistently quickly.|
I’m not that much of a online reader to be honest but your sites really nice, keep it up! I’ll go ahead and bookmark your site to come back down the road. Many thanks|
Regards! I like this.
I am sure this post has touched all the internet people, its really really pleasant post on building up new weblog.|
Great posts. Appreciate it!
Fine forum posts, Many thanks.
Hello, I enjoy reading all of your article post. I like to write a little comment to support you.|
I could not resist commenting. Exceptionally well written!
Hey there just wanted to give you a quick heads up. The words in your content seem to be running off the screen in Safari. I’m not sure if this is a format issue or something to do with internet browser compatibility but I figured I’d post to let you know. The style and design look great though! Hope you get the problem solved soon. Kudos|
Hi there! This is kind of off topic but I need some help from an established blog. Is it difficult to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast. I’m thinking about creating my own but I’m not sure where to begin. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? Thank you|
Whats up very cool blog!! Guy .. Excellent .. Wonderful .. I will bookmark your site and take the feeds additionally? I am happy to find numerous useful info here in the post, we need work out more techniques on this regard, thank you for sharing. . . . . .|
Hi there! I could have sworn I’ve been to this blog before but after looking at many of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Nonetheless, I’m definitely happy I found it and I’ll be bookmarking it and checking back frequently!|
You definitely made the point!
Yes! Finally something about keyword1.|
Wonderful data With thanks.
Heya this is kinda of off topic but I was wanting to know if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding knowledge so I wanted to get advice from someone with experience. Any help would be enormously appreciated!|
Hi there, I want to subscribe for this website to take most up-to-date updates, thus where can i do it please help.|
Thanks for any other excellent article. Where else may anyone get that kind of info in such a perfect manner of writing? I’ve a presentation subsequent week, and I am on the search for such info.|
I’m very pleased to discover this site. I need to to thank you for your time for this particularly fantastic read!! I definitely loved every bit of it and I have you book-marked to see new information on your website.
I’m not sure exactly why but this blog is loading incredibly slow for me. Is anyone else having this problem or is it a problem on my end? I’ll check back later on and see if the problem still exists.|
Thanks for the thoughts you reveal through this blog. In addition, numerous young women who become pregnant never even seek to get medical health insurance because they are full of fearfulness they probably would not qualify. Although a lot of states right now require that insurers offer coverage no matter what about the pre-existing conditions. Fees on these kind of guaranteed programs are usually higher, but when with the high cost of medical care it may be some sort of a safer route to take to protect the financial future.
Hi there terrific website! Does running a blog such as this take a lot of work? I have absolutely no expertise in programming but I had been hoping to start my own blog in the near future. Anyway, should you have any recommendations or techniques for new blog owners please share. I know this is off subject but I simply wanted to ask. Thanks!|
Hey there, I think your blog might be having browser compatibility issues. When I look at your blog site in Chrome, it looks fine but when opening in Internet Explorer, it has some overlapping. I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Other then that, excellent blog!
each time i used to read smaller content which also clear their motive, and that is also happening with this post which I am reading at this place.|
I blog frequently and I truly thank you for your content. Your article has really peaked my interest. I’m going to book mark your site and keep checking for new information about once a week. I opted in for your Feed too.
Excellent post. I’m dealing with some of these issues as well..
Thanks for finally talking about > blog_title < Loved it!|
Have you ever thought about publishing an e-book or guest authoring on other blogs? I have a blog based upon on the same subjects you discuss and would love to have you share some stories/information. I know my viewers would appreciate your work. If you’re even remotely interested, feel free to send me an e mail.|
There is certainly a lot to find out about this subject. I really like all of the points you’ve made.|
These are really impressive ideas in on the topic of blogging. You have touched some fastidious things here. Any way keep up wrinting.|
Do you mind if I quote a couple of your articles as long as I provide credit and sources back to your weblog? My blog is in the very same area of interest as yours and my users would truly benefit from a lot of the information you present here. Please let me know if this ok with you. Thanks!
Hi, i think that i saw you visited my web site so i came to “return the favor”.I am trying to find things to improve my site!I suppose its ok to use a few of your ideas!!|
Heya i am for the first time here. I found this board and I find It really useful & it helped me out much. I hope to give something back and help others like you aided me.|
fantastic post, very informative. I wonder why the opposite experts of this sector do not realize this. You should continue your writing. I’m confident, you have a great readers’ base already!|
Great post. I am experiencing some of these issues as well..
Good post. I learn something totally new and challenging on blogs I stumbleupon every day. It’s always exciting to read through articles from other writers and practice a little something from other websites.
Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.|
hello!,I love your writing very a lot! percentage we keep in touch extra about your post on AOL? I need a specialist on this space to solve my problem. Maybe that’s you! Looking ahead to peer you. |
Everyone loves it when people come together and share thoughts. Great site, continue the good work!|
I got this web page from my pal who told me on the topic of this web site and now this time I am visiting this web page and reading very informative content at this time.|
Good article! We will be linking to this particularly great post on our website. Keep up the great writing.
My brother suggested I would possibly like this web site. He was totally right. This put up truly made my day. You can not consider simply how so much time I had spent for this info! Thank you!|
Hi! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good success. If you know of any please share. Many thanks!|
I think that everything published made a bunch of
sense. But, what about this? what if you were to create
a killer headline? I am not saying your content is not good., however suppose you
added a title that grabbed folk’s attention? I mean Второй день Пути Сантьяго:
Фан — Каштелу-ду-Нейва — КРАМАР БЛОГ is kinda vanilla.
You ought to look at Yahoo’s home page and note how they
write news titles to get people interested. You might try adding a video or a
pic or two to get readers interested about what you’ve written. In my opinion, it might bring your website a little livelier.
Good post. I learn something totally new and challenging on blogs I stumbleupon every day. It will always be exciting to read through content from other authors and practice something from their websites. |
Why users still make use of to read news papers when in this technological globe everything is existing on net?|
What’s up every one, here every person is sharing these kinds of familiarity, therefore it’s nice to read this website, and I used to go to see this website all the time.|
Very good information. Lucky me I ran across your website by accident (stumbleupon). I’ve book-marked it for later!|
This is very fascinating, You’re an excessively professional blogger. I’ve joined your rss feed and sit up for looking for extra of your excellent post. Also, I have shared your website in my social networks|