Праздник огурца в Суздале: лучший провинциальный фестиваль
НА ОДИН ДЕНЬ, ПУТЕВОДИТЕЛИ

День Огурца в Суздале!

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День Огурца в Суздале: как это было

13 июля 2019 года прошел XIX международный праздник огурца в славном городе Суздаль. Переодевшись в меховой костюм огурца, мне удалось внедриться в толпу празднующих и поддаться всеобщему огуречному безумию. Я была огурцом, я ела огурцы, я рисовала огурцы, я нашла ресторан «Огурец», и даже попробовала малосольный огурчик со сцены. Сейчас расскажу, как всё было.

Костюм огурца из искусственного меха, самый популярный
в прокатной станции. Видимо, потому что дорого-богато.

Как-то раз летом краем глаза я увидела репортаж с Праздника огурца в Суздале по Первому каналу и поняла, что хочу. Я очень люблю Суздаль и огурцы, это было идеальное сочетание. В этом году я наконец-то реализовала свое давнее желание.

Вот такой огурец встречает гостей города около Торговых рядов.

Утро огуречного дня

В Суздале нет железной дороги, поэтому из Питера мы сначала доехали до Владимира. Мы добирались в Суздаль из Владимира утром в день праздника автобусом Владимир−Иваново. Дорога заняла чуть меньше часа от автовокзала Владимира до автовокзала Суздаля, который, кстати, находится далеко от центра по местным меркам, где-то 1.5 км по прямой до Торговых рядов. По несчастливой случайности в это время лил очень сильный дождь и погода была очень хмурой.

До начала Дня огурца оставалось чуть больше часа, и я уже начала переживать, что в такую дождливую погоду праздник под открытым небом никакого удовольствия не принесет. Тучки не показывали вида, будто скоро рассеются. Было принято стратегически верное решение: позавтракать горячей пищей в тепле и переждать дождь.

Гречневая каша с маслом и грибами в горшочке, черный кофе, малиновый и классический сбитень. Название кафе не помню, где-то в Торговых рядах.

После завтрака жить стало поприятнее: дождь перестал, да и сбитень разливался добрым теплом по телу. До открытия Праздника огурца оставалось совсем немного времени, и город ожил, открылись кафе и рестораны, все установили огуречные украшения, вывесили программу мероприятий на день и подъехало еще больше туристов. Мы пошли в Музей деревянного зодчества — к месту проведения фестиваля.

Архиерейские палаты в шашлычном дыму и лесах.

Чем ближе к музею, тем больше людей. Причем как посетителей, так и всевозможный торговцев. На подступах к основной площадке Дня огурца можно купить все: от разрезанного на удобные куски арбуза, до шашлыка, от магнитика в виде огурчика до красивого платья местных и владимирских дизайнеров, от бязевого ивановского постельного белья до шикарных лоскутных одеял ручной работы. В общем правда всё.

Мост через реку Каменку на подходе к Музею деревянного зодчества.

Меня такое обилие людей даже смутило, дорога до праздника больше напоминала рынок. После того, как мы пришли к кассе музея, стало понятно, почему так много всего за его границами. Думаю, дело в ценах на билеты. Для жителей Суздаля билет стоил символические 100 рублей, а вот для всех приезжих туристов уже 500 рублей. При этом это просто билет, к которому ничего не полагается. Думаю, кого-то могла душить жаба. Но я была решительно настроена, я ради этого приехала.

Внутри Музея деревянного зодчества сильно меньше людей, чем снаружи. К тому же нет такой оголтелой торговли, всё чинно.

И вот мы внутри, за 5 минут до торжественного открытия. Духовой оркестр играет «Прощание славянки», участники торжественного шествия выстраиваются в стройную колонну, люди достают свои фотоаппараты и ждут. Ровно в 11 началось шествие: немного людей в красивых костюмах и с плакатами прошли от входа в музей до главной сцены и тем самым открыли Праздник огурца в Суздале!

Участники шествия дошли до сцены и открыли XIX международный праздник огурца в Суздале! Ура!

То ли удачное стечение обстоятельств, то ли организаторы специально посмотрели прогноз, но погода именно в этот момент стала улучшаться. На небе начали появляться голубые просветы, а я начала вчитываться в надписи на потрясающих деревянных постройках. Очень жаль, что внутрь в этот день нельзя (из-за большого количества людей), но даже снаружи они смотрятся потрясающе.

Совершенно согласна с автором этого высказывания.
Не вижу своей жизни без огурчиков.

Немного истории Дня огурца

Пришло время немного рассказать, откуда в Суздале появился День огурца. Как-то раз местная жительница, которая очень любит Суздаль, побывала на Празднике чеснока в Финляндии. Ей очень понравилось как весь город выходит на праздник и по-добрососедски общается. Вернувшись из поездки, она решила организовать что-то подобное в Суздале. Так почти 20 лет назад прошел первый праздник огурца.

Вообще за звание огуречной столицы России борются три поселения: собственно Суздаль, подмосковные Луховицы и уральское село Истобенск. Кто из них огуречнее решили не выяснять, поэтому никто не протестует против того, что праздник все-таки в Суздале (но вроде бы в Истобенске тоже есть). На мой вкус, если сравнивать сорта огурцов Луховицкий и Суздальский, то Луховицкий мне показался вкуснее, так что вопрос про столицу действительно спорный.

Программа Праздника огурца

Больше всего меня интересовало, не будет ли там скучно. Все-таки территория музея маленькая, а людей пришло прилично. Но занятия как-то сами себя придумывали. Сначала я решила найти самый вкусный малосольный огурец, поэтому покупала в разных палатках по штучке и пробовала. Официально заявляю, вкусные абсолютно все.

Так же организовано много площадок с мастер-классами и викторинами, где можно участвовать бесплатно (то, что в официальной программе), а есть и платные активности, например стрельба из лука. Мне понравилось то, что делали на занятиях по карвингу, там у всех получалось что-то красивое. Я решила не ждать 40 минут следующей группы, поэтому сама не попробовала.

Мастер-классы по карвингу. Делали цветок из огурца
и фигурку человека из морковки и болгарского перца.

Для детей была познавательная секция с известным опытом с добычей электричества из картошки, разве что вместо картошки использовались соленые огурцы. Всем очень нравилось, тоже от желающих попробовать отбоя не было.

Затем надо было узнать, какие еще блюда из огурца принято делать в Суздале. Оказалось, что это варенье и калья. И варенье мне не понравилось совершенно, так как оно неароматное и просто безвкусное, как сахарный сироп, огурцы там для вида.

А вот калья очень вкусная. Это густой, наваристый суп из мяса или рыбы (я ела мясную), сваренный на огуречном рассоле. По сути это прототип современного рассольника, только бульон гуще и круче, и варится сильно дольше. Вот калью надо попробовать обязательно.

Палатки внутри музея выглядят более умеренно.

Помимо огуречных блюд в Суздале еще делают знаменитую медовуху, но мне вот она никак не нравилась в сочетании с послевкусием малосольных огурцов. Поэтому ее я разок попробовала, и для меня она оказалась чересчур сладкой, мне такое обычно хочется сразу запить водой.

Выступление участника шоу «Голос» собрал больше всего зрителей.

Помимо всего вышеописанного, на сцене постоянно что-то происходит. То выступления артистов, то конкурсы и награждения победителей. А номинаций много и разных! Например, самое вкусное блюдо из огурца, самое интересное блюдо из огурца, самый большой огурец и самый соленый. Если я правильно помню, то один из конкурсов победила панна-кота из огурца. Попробовать бы.

А вот в номинации «Самый соленый огурец», как выяснилось, уже который год побеждает один и тот же человек. Зовут этого героя Владимир Евстратов, местный житель, который делает специальную засолку к конкурсу каждый год, и не планирует терять пальму первенства. Местная живая легенда.

На этой фотографии прекрасно всё: от огурчиков, которые хрустят вместе, до колоритной пары в углу, которые тоже пришли похрустеть.

Мне больше всего понравился конкурс «Малосольные танцы», где надо было прямо на сцене сделать банку малосольных огурцов, танцуя под музыку. По сути женщины набирают банку огурцов, обрезают прямо на сцене попки, кладут все нужные листья, чеснок и соль и начинают эту банку сильно трясти под музыку. Огурцы выделяют сок и получается рассол. Я пробовала со сцены, правда очень вкусно, упруго и в меру солено. Мне не сильно нравился рецепт с кипятком, так что я теперь сама буду трясти банку.

Кульминацией же праздника считается запуск огурца в небо. Причем в кармашке у игрушки есть сертификат на выходные в загородном клубе для семьи. Но как говорит статистика, из всех запущенных огурцов были найдены единицы, так что улетают они, возможно, очень далеко. Очень мило, что огурец отпускают под переделанную песню «До свиданья, наш ласковый мишка!», которую поет даже генеральный директор Владимиро-Суздальского музея заповедника. Вот такое вот всеобщее единение.

Огурец, в кармане которого приз для семьи, которая его найдет.

После запуска огурца в небо обычно начинается праздничный концерт, который не было никакого желания смотреть. Тем не менее, пришло очень много местных и наконец-то подъехали опоздавшие туристы (на подъездах к суздалю в этот день пробки) и заняли почти все пространство музея. В этот момент мы решили уйти, прогуляться по вечернему Суздалю и поужинать в ресторане «Огурец».

Завершение дня

В Суздале здорово просто гулять. Каждый дом такой красивый, церкви сияют на солнце, бабуськи продают смородину и стручковый горох, цветы цветут. В Ленинградской области в июле только в редкий районах хоть что-то созрело, клубника, например, а тут уже свое и вкуснее. Еще стало заметно, что почти весь народ перекочевал в Музей деревянного зодчества и в городе было очень спокойно и тихо.

Мы погуляли вдоль Каменки, прошли по мостикам и центральным улочкам, зашли в ресторан «Огурец», чтобы завершить день на огуречной ноте. Я думала там взять десерт, который я видела в блоге Михаила Ширвиндта. Это должна была быть огуречная сгущенка с гречневыми хлопьями, но оказалось, что в меню такого блюда нет. Может быть ему ее готовили специально, а может быть просто убрали из меню. Мои ожидания попробовать что-то огуречное и при этом современное, а не традиционное, не оправдались.

Корги сделали костюм в виде огурчика. Очень похож.

На последок мы забрались на Преподобенскую колокольню, которая хороша тем, что на ее вершине нет никаких решеток и сеток и вид ничего не портит и отправились на вокзал, на последний автобус во Владимир.

К вечеру погода стала волшебной, белые храмы сияли на солнце. Вид с Преподобенской колокольни.

День Огурца — отличный праздник, который стоит того, чтобы специально ради него приехать в Суздаль. Да, он новый, а не исторический. Да, он местами даже слишком старается быть русским. Но ведь это же неплохо. Это можно считать научно-популярным историческим праздником, который понравится всем, так еще и огурчиков вкусных поесть вдоволь можно. По итогам, я искренне рекомендую хотя бы раз туда съездить, это весело и интересно.

Как это было в моём Instagram можно посмотреть по тегу #нос_с_огурец.

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